how do you change 400ex brake pads
#1
Just recently purchased a used Honda 400ex and the rear brakes are completely gone. I bought the replacement pads, but I dont know the process for changing them out. Can someone list the steps for me?
The foot brake that controls the rear brakes just pushes all the way down. There is no resistance except for the spring and no braking at all. Thanks for the help.
The foot brake that controls the rear brakes just pushes all the way down. There is no resistance except for the spring and no braking at all. Thanks for the help.
#2
Here is what I do:
First, make sure your axle nuts are tightened properly. Grab the brake rotor and try to wiggle it forward and back. If there is movement, you need to re-torque your axle nuts. It is possible that your bearings have gone bad too if there is play. The main reason this is important is that a loose axle will wear your rear brakes down much faster as the axle is actually sliding a little to the left and a little to the right if it isn't tight. This action will make the brake rotor rub against the brake pads even when you aren't applying any pressure to the pedal.
Okay, time to move on if your axle is fine...
1) If you still have the emergency brake setup, loosen it up and turn the screw as far out as possible then tighten the locknut back up. I highly recommend getting a brake blockoff kit and just removing this setup completely.
2) Use a 12mm socket to loosen the 2 bolts (pins) that hold the brake pads in place. Do not completely take them out yet. Just loosen them.
3) Use a 12mm socket to remove the 2 bolts that hold the brake caliper to the caliper holder. Remove the brake caliper.
4) Now remove the 2 bolts that you loosened in step 2. Pull the old pads out.
5) You need to compress the brake cylinder back in. The easiest way to do this is with C-Clamp vice grips. A C-clamp will also work.
6) Install your new brake pads and finger tighten the 2 bolts (pins) that hold the brake pads in place. You might need to arrange the pads so you have space to install over the brake rotor. I always put a little silicon grease on the pins...not that I am sure it really does much but it make me feel like I am doing a good job.
7) Re-install the brake caliper. Install the 2 bolts and torque to 22 lbs.
8) Now torque the 2 bolts (pins) that hold the brake pads in place to 12 lbs.
9) I recommend not re-adjusting the emergency brake setup. Even if you do adjust it, the 1st time you ride and wear your brakes down a little, your emergency brake will need re-adjusted. This is a constant battle...plus it can work against you and actually cause your brakes to wear more.
You shouldn't need to bleed the brakes at all if you follow this method. If you do need to bleed your rear brake and do have some foot pedal resistance, here is how you reverse bleed your brakes:
1) Pump the brake pedal about 20 times and then use a bungee if anything you have will keep full pressure on the brake pedal for 8 hours.
2) Loosen the reservoir cap and wait for 8 hours
3) After 8 hours, pump the brake pedal up again about 20 times and tie it down again.
4) Wait 8 hours and then tighten the reservoir cap.
Good Luck.
/Jon
First, make sure your axle nuts are tightened properly. Grab the brake rotor and try to wiggle it forward and back. If there is movement, you need to re-torque your axle nuts. It is possible that your bearings have gone bad too if there is play. The main reason this is important is that a loose axle will wear your rear brakes down much faster as the axle is actually sliding a little to the left and a little to the right if it isn't tight. This action will make the brake rotor rub against the brake pads even when you aren't applying any pressure to the pedal.
Okay, time to move on if your axle is fine...
1) If you still have the emergency brake setup, loosen it up and turn the screw as far out as possible then tighten the locknut back up. I highly recommend getting a brake blockoff kit and just removing this setup completely.
2) Use a 12mm socket to loosen the 2 bolts (pins) that hold the brake pads in place. Do not completely take them out yet. Just loosen them.
3) Use a 12mm socket to remove the 2 bolts that hold the brake caliper to the caliper holder. Remove the brake caliper.
4) Now remove the 2 bolts that you loosened in step 2. Pull the old pads out.
5) You need to compress the brake cylinder back in. The easiest way to do this is with C-Clamp vice grips. A C-clamp will also work.
6) Install your new brake pads and finger tighten the 2 bolts (pins) that hold the brake pads in place. You might need to arrange the pads so you have space to install over the brake rotor. I always put a little silicon grease on the pins...not that I am sure it really does much but it make me feel like I am doing a good job.
7) Re-install the brake caliper. Install the 2 bolts and torque to 22 lbs.
8) Now torque the 2 bolts (pins) that hold the brake pads in place to 12 lbs.
9) I recommend not re-adjusting the emergency brake setup. Even if you do adjust it, the 1st time you ride and wear your brakes down a little, your emergency brake will need re-adjusted. This is a constant battle...plus it can work against you and actually cause your brakes to wear more.
You shouldn't need to bleed the brakes at all if you follow this method. If you do need to bleed your rear brake and do have some foot pedal resistance, here is how you reverse bleed your brakes:
1) Pump the brake pedal about 20 times and then use a bungee if anything you have will keep full pressure on the brake pedal for 8 hours.
2) Loosen the reservoir cap and wait for 8 hours
3) After 8 hours, pump the brake pedal up again about 20 times and tie it down again.
4) Wait 8 hours and then tighten the reservoir cap.
Good Luck.
/Jon
#3
I just re-read your post. Even when brake pads that are completely gone, you will get resistance when pumping the brake pedal. You need to check your fluid level. If your fluid level isn't low, then it is possible you have a more serious issue than just your brake pads. It is possible you need to bleed them the regular way (and not a reverse bleed as I mentioned earlier).
/Jon
/Jon
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