Testing Anti-Freeze
#1
I'm getting my Dad's AC 500 Auto ready to spend the winter stored outside ready to plow snow if necessary. I pulled the Radiator cap off to check the antifreeze level & test for protection. It was a little low, so I added straight antifreeze to fill it up (probably less than a cup). I then started it up to warm it up & let the added amount mix with the rest so I could get an accurate test. Well, even with revving the engine, I never could get the thermostat to open. The upper hose got warm (not hot) but the lower one remained cold. What do you have to do, or should I say, How long do it normally take to warm it up enough to open the thermostat & circulate the coolant?? Also does anyone know what mixture the factory sends out in the liquid cooled machines? I'm going to assume it's a 50\50 mix but if anyone knows it's something different, please let me know. This paticular machine only has about 60 miles on it & has been used very little.
Thanks for your help.
Lance
Thanks for your help.
Lance
#4
I don't konw if there is a thermstat or not! All I know is the motor was running, the fan was blowing, but the water didn't seem to be circulating thru the radiator. Maybe it was but it sure didn't seem to be flowing like a car radiator does. The motor never seems to get hot, we used that ATV to pull an aerator back & forth across 3-4 acres & it never even seemed warm so I assume the cooling system is working fine.
I want to get a service manual for the 2000 AC 500s, where is the best place to order one? Please don't say my Dealer because all of the dealers around here don't know their **** from a hole in the ground or don't bother to try to figure it out. I'd like to find one mail order somewhere.
Lance
I want to get a service manual for the 2000 AC 500s, where is the best place to order one? Please don't say my Dealer because all of the dealers around here don't know their **** from a hole in the ground or don't bother to try to figure it out. I'd like to find one mail order somewhere.
Lance
#5
A thermostat opens when the engines coolant gets over boiling point. Then lets the coolant travel to the rad. to get cooled off. and it is then sent back into the engines water jackets to cool off the engine.
Now I don't know much about the Arctic-cats, you say they don't have thermostats, so the coolant must always be flowing.
Now I don't know much about the Arctic-cats, you say they don't have thermostats, so the coolant must always be flowing.
#6
Just running empty, you likely didn't build up enough heat to make the top hose feel hot. It only takes a small amount of coolant flow to keep a single cylinder engine cool, especially with no load.
For future reference, test the coolant before you add any (if there is enough so that the tester can get to it) and test what you are adding. As long as they both pass, you are fine.
I wouldn't worry, the factory puts in good stuff, so as long as you what you added wasn't too weak, you will be fine.
Some automotive anti-freeze contain silicate solids which tends to make some types of seals leak prematurely. Whether or not this affects your machine, I don't know.
For future reference, test the coolant before you add any (if there is enough so that the tester can get to it) and test what you are adding. As long as they both pass, you are fine.
I wouldn't worry, the factory puts in good stuff, so as long as you what you added wasn't too weak, you will be fine.
Some automotive anti-freeze contain silicate solids which tends to make some types of seals leak prematurely. Whether or not this affects your machine, I don't know.
#7
the 2000,s do have a thermostat what they don't have thermo disc to run the fan. These discs were a bit of a problem. The fan runs all the time but the coolant will only move through the rad if the temp is high enough. The thermostat range for the 400 and the 500 is differant. It causes a lot of excess engine wear to run an engine without a thermostat. The engine run cooler, and the clearances are incorrect. I saw a chart once that showed a 50% increase in engine wear by running it 40 degrees below its normal operating temperature. The water pump has a built in bypass to allow the collant to flow around the engine until it is hot enough to be sent to the rad,
Cheers Jim
Cheers Jim
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#8
Jkb:
Hey, you just brought up a confusing statement. Something about a 50% increase in engine wear, due to a 40 degree drop in engine temp? Judging from that, I'd now assume that it would not be recommended to install one of those heat fighter kits from H.L.? I was just asking Boner about those-to let me know how he likes it, if he gets it-as I was thinking of putting one on my 'Cat. I've noticed that while pulling logs with the taller 'Claws on, she get's a little warmer. Not hot, but warmer than usual, and was just wondering about putting on one of those heat fighter kits to help keep it cooler. Now that you mention this little tid bit, I'm now thinking otherwise. Do you know the proper temperature range? Or, how much those kits will drop the actual temp? I hadn't thought much about it before, but a 50% increase in engine wear is quite substantial! Though, at the same time, I wouldn't think they'd be selling something that would intentionally wear out an engine faster, of course then you've entered into the issue of cv joints and lift kits, so I guess it's a toss-up.
Sorry for the mix-up, could you post the numbers if you have them? And, do you think the kit would be a good idea, or not with the taller tires. I'm not worried about winter, but during the summer, it's 100+ degrees most of the time, and that's usually unbearably hot, even worse on the engine I would think.
Thanks!
Mike
Hey, you just brought up a confusing statement. Something about a 50% increase in engine wear, due to a 40 degree drop in engine temp? Judging from that, I'd now assume that it would not be recommended to install one of those heat fighter kits from H.L.? I was just asking Boner about those-to let me know how he likes it, if he gets it-as I was thinking of putting one on my 'Cat. I've noticed that while pulling logs with the taller 'Claws on, she get's a little warmer. Not hot, but warmer than usual, and was just wondering about putting on one of those heat fighter kits to help keep it cooler. Now that you mention this little tid bit, I'm now thinking otherwise. Do you know the proper temperature range? Or, how much those kits will drop the actual temp? I hadn't thought much about it before, but a 50% increase in engine wear is quite substantial! Though, at the same time, I wouldn't think they'd be selling something that would intentionally wear out an engine faster, of course then you've entered into the issue of cv joints and lift kits, so I guess it's a toss-up.
Sorry for the mix-up, could you post the numbers if you have them? And, do you think the kit would be a good idea, or not with the taller tires. I'm not worried about winter, but during the summer, it's 100+ degrees most of the time, and that's usually unbearably hot, even worse on the engine I would think.
Thanks!
Mike
#9
What he means is that if you run coolant threw thew motor and keep it too cool you will increase wear by 50%.
Thats why most of the engine wear is in the first 20 min of an engine's start up.
The Oil is too cold(thick) to flow to all the places it needs to so some parts of the motor are deprived of this vitail oil with increases friction and wear.
High Lifter's Heat Fighter kit reduces the chance of the motor getting TOO hot.
If your motor is too cold this will cause increased wear on parts cause of lack of oil, if the motor gets too hot your parts expand, letting less oil between the parts, which increases friction and heat. This increase in heat breaks down oil's lubrication and that in effect increases engine wear.
Thats why most of the engine wear is in the first 20 min of an engine's start up.
The Oil is too cold(thick) to flow to all the places it needs to so some parts of the motor are deprived of this vitail oil with increases friction and wear.
High Lifter's Heat Fighter kit reduces the chance of the motor getting TOO hot.
If your motor is too cold this will cause increased wear on parts cause of lack of oil, if the motor gets too hot your parts expand, letting less oil between the parts, which increases friction and heat. This increase in heat breaks down oil's lubrication and that in effect increases engine wear.
#10
Boner:
Thanks for the clarification, sorry it has been a long few days, and I'm not sure where my mind went. Too many relatives over and a lot of work. Finally got my log bed finished that I designed and built, and haulled it up to Pullman yesterday. Got two new orders, so I have to head out with the 'Cat one of the "free" weekends, to select some new timber for another couple beds, as well as benches and lamp tables.
Again, sorry I wasn't thinking there, thanks again for clearing it up!
Mike
Thanks for the clarification, sorry it has been a long few days, and I'm not sure where my mind went. Too many relatives over and a lot of work. Finally got my log bed finished that I designed and built, and haulled it up to Pullman yesterday. Got two new orders, so I have to head out with the 'Cat one of the "free" weekends, to select some new timber for another couple beds, as well as benches and lamp tables.
Again, sorry I wasn't thinking there, thanks again for clearing it up!
Mike


