Testing Anti-Freeze
#11
Hey CatLance,
you can order a manual or anything else you might need for your AC from:
Smith Marine
573 East Butler Ave.
New Britian, Pa.
(215) 345-1621
These people really care about customer satisfaction. I can't say enough good about them.
you can order a manual or anything else you might need for your AC from:
Smith Marine
573 East Butler Ave.
New Britian, Pa.
(215) 345-1621
These people really care about customer satisfaction. I can't say enough good about them.
#13
Hey Cowboy,
I just got my 3/8" thick spacers back from the machine shop and installed them. This is a mod that could be sold aftermarket. They work great, the supension is a little stiffer but not not enough to ruin the ride. I gained about an 1" under the frame. This makes my tire decision easy, I already gained the clearance that the 26"es would have given me. I think now I will go to 25 " Titan 589's. Thanks for the great tip.
Cheers Jim
I just got my 3/8" thick spacers back from the machine shop and installed them. This is a mod that could be sold aftermarket. They work great, the supension is a little stiffer but not not enough to ruin the ride. I gained about an 1" under the frame. This makes my tire decision easy, I already gained the clearance that the 26"es would have given me. I think now I will go to 25 " Titan 589's. Thanks for the great tip.
Cheers Jim
#14
Jkb:
Glad to help! Like I said, with the heavy weight I carry up front, I don't notice the stiffer ride TOO much, though without the wieght up there, I imagine it would be much more rough. Out of curiousity, if you don't mind me asking, what did they charge for cutting them for you? I made my own because the machine shop was closed, and ended up paying right around $4.00 or so if I remember right. I know it was under $5 for sure. I don't imagine the steel shop would be that much more, so hopefully you saved a few bucks by not going with a lift kit. If you run the 25's, you'll maintain the stock heigth as well, so your gearing would be the same, and thus the machine performance should be the same as well. Hope that works out for you.
Best of luck,
Mike
Glad to help! Like I said, with the heavy weight I carry up front, I don't notice the stiffer ride TOO much, though without the wieght up there, I imagine it would be much more rough. Out of curiousity, if you don't mind me asking, what did they charge for cutting them for you? I made my own because the machine shop was closed, and ended up paying right around $4.00 or so if I remember right. I know it was under $5 for sure. I don't imagine the steel shop would be that much more, so hopefully you saved a few bucks by not going with a lift kit. If you run the 25's, you'll maintain the stock heigth as well, so your gearing would be the same, and thus the machine performance should be the same as well. Hope that works out for you.
Best of luck,
Mike
#16
The spacers were Cowboys idea to help fix a front end that was sagging under a crate full of goodies that weighed in at 100 lbs. I simply removed the washer that is at the bottom of the shock to hold the spring and had thicker ones made up. The machine shop charged me $48.00 to make up the set of four.
Cheers Jim
Cheers Jim
#17
VtCatamount:
When I first learned of the spacer trick, Trailboss had mentioned I try it out, as he had done it on his 450. I was sufferring from a sagging front end, due to the 100+ lbs. I carry on the front rack at all times. By installing 3/8" spacers under the large washer that acts as the base plate under the spring, I was able to essentially stiffen the spring assembly. This then allows the machine to handle heavier weights, without sagging the front end. As a result, I gained about 1 1/2" of ground clearance by adding the spacers. JKB tried this trick on his 'Cat and gained about 1" it looks like.
Like he said, an added bonus is that the spacers stiffen up the ride to a point that it eliminates the slight body roll you'll get while cornering hard, or even on steep sidehills. After I installed the 27" 'Claws, in addition to the 3/8" spacers, I had to check the measurements twice, as I actually gained 3.5" of total ground clearance-at the lowest point (rear diff)!
I noticed the body roll thing was gone, and that I could power through corners faster now, than I did before, but didn't really notice much anywhere else. Then, while riding my Dad's 'Cat -that doesn't have the spacers- through a technically challenging area that my hunting partner was not confident enough to try, I noticed how bad it leaned in the steep sidehills. Even with my larger tires, and higher center of gravity, my 'Cat was MORE stable than my Dad's stock 'Cat. I kept all four wheels on the ground, where the left rear came up on his.
I also added a set to the rear springs, which helped even more, and also allows for even more weight to be handled better on the rear rack. I'm not saying to specifically add more weight, but what I am saying is that with the spacers in, the machine handles that weight better, easier.
Like JKB said, it does ride a little more stiff than stock, but nothing that really is a pain or annoying. And, with the weight I carry, I can't even tell a difference at all.
The other added bonus is, compared to a lift kit, you do get a slight bit of clearance gain -at least one inch, up to 1.5 from what I've seen so far- without the severe stress that is added from the actual lift kit itself. I can't comment on the actual lift kit itself, as I've never owned one, but do know what I've heard from others who have had problems with them. I think the spacers have the advantage here, as the cv joints are not subjected to the severe angles that the lift kit equates to.
Anyway, hope that helps a bit.
Mike
When I first learned of the spacer trick, Trailboss had mentioned I try it out, as he had done it on his 450. I was sufferring from a sagging front end, due to the 100+ lbs. I carry on the front rack at all times. By installing 3/8" spacers under the large washer that acts as the base plate under the spring, I was able to essentially stiffen the spring assembly. This then allows the machine to handle heavier weights, without sagging the front end. As a result, I gained about 1 1/2" of ground clearance by adding the spacers. JKB tried this trick on his 'Cat and gained about 1" it looks like.
Like he said, an added bonus is that the spacers stiffen up the ride to a point that it eliminates the slight body roll you'll get while cornering hard, or even on steep sidehills. After I installed the 27" 'Claws, in addition to the 3/8" spacers, I had to check the measurements twice, as I actually gained 3.5" of total ground clearance-at the lowest point (rear diff)!
I noticed the body roll thing was gone, and that I could power through corners faster now, than I did before, but didn't really notice much anywhere else. Then, while riding my Dad's 'Cat -that doesn't have the spacers- through a technically challenging area that my hunting partner was not confident enough to try, I noticed how bad it leaned in the steep sidehills. Even with my larger tires, and higher center of gravity, my 'Cat was MORE stable than my Dad's stock 'Cat. I kept all four wheels on the ground, where the left rear came up on his.
I also added a set to the rear springs, which helped even more, and also allows for even more weight to be handled better on the rear rack. I'm not saying to specifically add more weight, but what I am saying is that with the spacers in, the machine handles that weight better, easier.
Like JKB said, it does ride a little more stiff than stock, but nothing that really is a pain or annoying. And, with the weight I carry, I can't even tell a difference at all.
The other added bonus is, compared to a lift kit, you do get a slight bit of clearance gain -at least one inch, up to 1.5 from what I've seen so far- without the severe stress that is added from the actual lift kit itself. I can't comment on the actual lift kit itself, as I've never owned one, but do know what I've heard from others who have had problems with them. I think the spacers have the advantage here, as the cv joints are not subjected to the severe angles that the lift kit equates to.
Anyway, hope that helps a bit.
Mike
#18
Jim:
I was going to ask you if you had all four done, or just the fronts-looks like you had all four. Next question-when I pulled my rear shocks off the 'Cat, and they were at full extension, the spring almost had space between the retainer and the washer. It was very easy to remove them, and even install the new spacer by hand, without the help of tools. Did you notice the same thing on your 'Cat? I was just curious if all the rear springs are that light or short, or if maybe mine aren't the right ones. My fronts were very tight, difficult to remove, but the rears were extremely easy.
As for the price, it seems a little high, but is definately cheaper than the lift kit by at least another $30 or so. Granted, you won't get the two inch gain that the lift gives, but I honestly don't think the joints are subjected to the stress with the spacers that the lift gives.
Thanks for the comments!
Mike
I was going to ask you if you had all four done, or just the fronts-looks like you had all four. Next question-when I pulled my rear shocks off the 'Cat, and they were at full extension, the spring almost had space between the retainer and the washer. It was very easy to remove them, and even install the new spacer by hand, without the help of tools. Did you notice the same thing on your 'Cat? I was just curious if all the rear springs are that light or short, or if maybe mine aren't the right ones. My fronts were very tight, difficult to remove, but the rears were extremely easy.
As for the price, it seems a little high, but is definately cheaper than the lift kit by at least another $30 or so. Granted, you won't get the two inch gain that the lift gives, but I honestly don't think the joints are subjected to the stress with the spacers that the lift gives.
Thanks for the comments!
Mike
#19
Boner
In my 2001 ac manual on page4-32 there is a thermostat. Theres a test procedure place thermostat in water with thermometer heat the water thermostat should start to open at 119 to 124 F if not replace thermostat. hope this helps
In my 2001 ac manual on page4-32 there is a thermostat. Theres a test procedure place thermostat in water with thermometer heat the water thermostat should start to open at 119 to 124 F if not replace thermostat. hope this helps


