I put 27" Mudzillas with 1.5" spacers. I was happy with the all around performance, until I buried it good. I could barely turn over the tires! My Grizzly buddy loved it. Anyway, what clutch kits are you guys recommending. I do trail riding and mud holes. I've put clutches on a '01 400 scrammy and a '01 500 Sportsman with EBS. Is this any more difficult? Any special tools needed? Thanks

 

If you are doing alot fo mud riding and what that mchein to perform it's best in the mud I would suggest either going to a stiffer secondary spring, or do a complete kit go to heavier weights, stiffer primary spring, shallower helix and stiffer secondary spring this will give you alot of belt grip and it will help keep the rpm's up once you start spinning your tires.

Installing and tools needed to change parts the primary is the same as you olkder units when it come to changing out the parts, the secondary however is a team rapid reaction secondary and to change the spring you need have a snap-ring pliers and a team secondary clutch tool to get the spring out, it cannot be done by hand like the old clutches.

 

I’m running a Heel Clicker kit on my ’06 800 with 27” Swamp Lites (tires actually measure closer to 28” so they rob some power). Very pleased with the results of the HC, so pleased in fact that I’ll probably become a dealer for them and start offering the kits on the Quadovator website.

I had an HC kit on my 700 before trading it on the 800 and I have an HC kit on my 700 Ranger (that’s turning 29.5” Swamp Lites with a 6” Gorilla lift). Here’s the thing about clutch kits. You can take a Dalton, EPI, etc and set them side by side and they all look pretty much identical. You get flyweights and springs of the weight and tension that someone else considers appropriate for the end result you want. The HC kit is different because it’s tunable. You have the option of using different weights on three positions on each of the three flyweights. This sounds a lot more complicated that it is. The kit comes with a “recommended” setup for your specific machine. You set it up that way and make changes from there, using a simple guide that tells you what to expect as you change different weights. No special tools are required to work on the primary clutch unless you want to go beyond installing the new flyweights and spring. If you want to install the spring on the secondary clutch it’s very helpful to have a spring compressor designed for the job.

Specifically, in my opinion the 800 makes enough power that you don’t need a higher rpm belt engagement, which is what you’ll get from the primary spring in the kit. I left my stock primary spring in and the stock secondary spring works fine too. All you should need to do on your 800 is replace the flyweights. I’m using the recommended weight configuration and I’m extremely happy with the result. As a bonus (again, this is a matter of personal preference) the improved belt grab has enhanced the EBS. Below 3500 rpm if you let off on the throttle you will come to a dead stop. I like having that kind of control at the tip of my thumb but I know there are those out there who don’t care for the EBS. Let me know if you want an HC kit, I’ll see what I can do for you.

 

So, you just changed the flyweights? If this is true how, is it a HC? Or did you use the HC flyweights? I may be misreading what you have done to yours. The flywieights are very simple to change, right? So if I had a warranty issue, I could go back to stock very quickly. Let me know if I am on the write page! I bought the extended warranty, 5 full years. It is good and bad. Good if the EFI or any other expensive thing screws up, bad for mods that I want.LOL!!! Actually I had planned on selling the Mudzilla's, because the stockers are pretty descent. But, I started riding with an old friend that has a Grizzly, bored out, Mudbuster cam, after market pipe, Bi-Claws and Tri-Claws, funny how that little thing could change my mind, isn't it? LOL!!!

 

hey floodrunner, how much can you get a kit for if i might ask? i just put 27" lites on and am wondering if i need the h/c for mine. i actually use low range all the time going slow and though the mud because i know the power will destroy the belt. and yes the weights are pretty easy to put on and take off. thanks.

 

im sorry, maybe its just me, but yes, its true, i do want more power! I always have, but i keep on restricting myself because im saving up for a new 800 or possibly something else, but BACK TO THE SUBJECT. I have a 3000lb winch, 2 inch lift, and 27 589's, which are definatly heavier than XTR's and i still dont need any extra power. It turns them over with so much ease, i can hardly notice a power loss. Except a little on the top end. So apparently your greedy for more power (which is very common, i am myself) but i dont think you need anymore. But then again, once i get my 800, believe me, if theres a power mod out there for it, ill probably try it out. Good luck.
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2004 Polaris Sportsman 700 (Green)
'27 ITP 589 M/S Tires
on ITP Type 5 Wheels
3000 lb. Warn Winch
3-Way Headlight Mod
High Lifter Lift Kit

2004 Polaris Sportsman 500 Mossy Oak - STOLEN
2001 Honda Rancher ES 350
Sold

 

I thought that I didn't need the clutch until It was STUCK bad. Low gear in 4x4 and barely turned the tires over. Grizzly buddy got a kick out that that. Anyway that is the onle time i noticed a problem, once is too much. I have the Boyscout attitude, "Always Be Ready!"

 

Instigator, the clutch “kit” is comprised of 3 new flyweights, a bag of screws and washers that you use to add weight to the three positions on the three new flyweights (this is the “tunable” part, one of the things that makes the HC unique), a choice of two replacement springs for your primary clutch, a new spring for your secondary clutch and instructions that describe what changes you can expect from playing with different combinations of weight on the flyweights.

On my 700 I used the entire kit as per instructions, which means I added the recommended combination of screws (weights) to the flyweights, replaced the stock primary spring with one of the two provided in the kit and replaced the stock secondary spring with the one in the kit. After trying it I changed the secondary spring back to stock just as a test but performance suffered so I put the stiffer HC spring back in. The result was engagement (this is the point at which your machine begins to move from a dead stop) was about 200 rpm higher than stock and belt “grab” was vastly improved so LOW was rarely needed. Even though belt engagement was at a higher rpm (engine making more power) it was very smooth, not at all jerky.

My 800 with the power gain from the Aaen single can pipe has so much low end grunt I didn’t feel the need to raise the engagement rpm so I’m using just the flyweights, weighted as recommended in the instructions for the 800. Very impressive performance.

Yeah, none of us “needs” more power, but IT SURE IS FUN!! I’d rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

 

i guess i have a hard time understanding how(not saying i dont beleave) in low range you couldnt get the tires to barely move. was it because the belt was slipping that bad? you have plenty of power to do it for sure. just wondering thanks.

 

Same here??,even my 2000 500 with bigger tires will never stop spining. If I hook it up to a big tree it turns into a rototiller[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]