I just had the camshaft replaced because the exhaust lobe was worn off. My question is: Can I put Lucas oil additive in to help prevent this from happening again? I bought it with the problem, but did not know it. It runs so much better!! Just want to avoid the expense again if possible. Any info. would be appreciated.

 

The reason the camshaft wore was due to lack of oil. the new camshaft design should have 2 holes for oiling instead of 1. You should just stick to the factory oil. it is very thin at a 0 weight. Making it thicker could do harm to other engine componets.

 

Do not use any additive.

Do not use the Polaris oil.

Use a good name brand synthetic oil and change it when it starts to get dirty and you will never have any cam problems.

 

You can use the Polaris oil, or any other oil that meets the same standards (weight wise).

I'd say use what you feel comfortable with. The Polaris oil is a little expensive, but if it gives you peace of mind, then it's money well spent.

 

Using the Polaris oil may give some of your "peace or mind" but it is a false sense of peace.

Your mind may be at ease because you think you are doing the right thing but in reality a good name brand synthetic that you can buy at any auto parts store or even Walmart for less than the Polaris oil is better for your engine.

 

Just like Polairs to sell us defective stuff.

 

The only fluid from a Polaris dealer that you need to buy is the special oil for the front diff.

Once I find a known good replacement for it I will let everyone know.

So far in my tests Castrol Syntec 5-20 seems to work fine but it is too early to say for sure.

The Polaris motor oil is no better than the name brand synthetics and many cases not as good so why buy it?

 

Please don't take any offence to this, but how can you down grade polaris lubricants without test to back it up. They take a 0 weight oil because clearance for the bearings are so tight. A 5 weight oil is gonna be thicker and can cause premature failure over time to the rod bearing. And successfully changing a rod bearing on a 500 with a pressed togather crank is not easy. I have over 20,000 miles on my scram 500. I had the start switch go bad and caused the fan and lights not to come on. So it overheated and i did not know until it was too late. I decided to replace the rings and piston since I had so many miles on it. I had hardly any ridge on the cylinder wall. It measured to factory tolerances. So I would not go so far as to say there stuff is junk. I have always used there stuff, and after seeing this, I always will. I'm not saying there aren't any other good lubs out there, but just because it meets certain standards does not mean it is perfect for that engine. Just like the polaris filter out cleans a fram by 28%. I have never had a bearing or gear go bad that has ran in Polaris fluids. So why should i settle for the walmart, extra, scraped off the floor left overs that were put in a bottle with a fancy logo that says "Blended for ATV's and Motorcycles" I'm sticking to what works.

 

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Here is my take on Polaris oils. 1st off I know this topic is about their 4-stroke oils, HOWEVER..... I was an eye witness to Polaris 2-stroke "Blue" oil being put on a bearing load tester & the load tester could NOT stop the bearing from spinning when lubed with Polaris oil. This particular load tester was rated to 50,000 PSI!!!!!!!

Now, this test was not a promo. for Polaris oil, rather a promo. for Shaffers Synthetic oils. In our class we were told to bring any oil of our choice in an unlabeled container & the Shaffers rep. would load test it for us to see how it compared to "his" oil. When he put the Polaris oil to the test & could not stop the bearing he was floored to say the least & wanted to know what brand of oil this was. Even his own brand that he was promoting ( Shaffers ) the bearing would stop around 35-40,000 PSI.


Now like i said in the begining, this test was done on Polaris 2-stroke oil, BUT I could only have to guess that Polaris uses the same technology in their 4-stroke oil as well.