2005 Raptor 660: How to Adjust Chain?
#1
I have a 2005 Raptor 660, and while riding today, the chain popped! I checked the chain and I have way too much slack.... how exactly do I tighten it? Where are the bolts I need to loosen? Also, I installed a new skid plate for the brake disc and chain. To install it, I had to stand the bike up on its rear end. After I did that, my front brakes no longer worked. I checked the reservoir and it was empty! Any tips on bleeding?
#2
There are two bolts on the swingarm with locknuts. Loosen the locknuts and turn the bolts in to tighten, Turn them in equally. Retighten locknuts. You should have 1" - 1 1/2" of slack at it's loosest point. You should do this with quad elevated so there is no pressure on the swingarm. As far as your brakes I'm not really sure...
#3
Bass Blaster missed one step in your chain adjustment.
There are two long bolts on top and bottom of your carrier, at the back of your swingarm, which go through the swingarm and the bearing carrier housing in the direction of the axle. These are 17 mm nuts on the end of the bolts, and must be loosened to allow the bearing carrier to rotate before you turn the adjusters on the top of the swingarm bearing carrier housing. If you don't loosen the two large, horizontal bolts, then you will strip out your adjusters or worse, break them.
As far as your breaks go, you need to check all your connections at the reservoir on the handlebars, at the junction down by the steering stem bottom and at the break calipers themselves. You must have had a bad leak, either a loose fixture or a broken line to lose all your fluid. Or, you migt not have had your reservoir cap on tight enough.
Regardless of the cause, you now have to bleed all the air out of your lines. You've got to put the bike on its wheels, and fill up the reservoir not quite to the top. Then, it's a matter of pumping the brake lever and then cracking the 8 mm bleeder valves on the calipers to build up pressure. Unless you have a vacuum system which can pull the fluid through via a hand pump. It's less messy and can create better pressure.
But first you have to retighten all your connections, possibly replace the black rubber bladder in your reservoir and maybe buy new brake lines! Do yourself a favor, buy some stainless steel lines. They hold pressure better, are more durable, don't flex and create a better stopping feel in your brakes.
There are two long bolts on top and bottom of your carrier, at the back of your swingarm, which go through the swingarm and the bearing carrier housing in the direction of the axle. These are 17 mm nuts on the end of the bolts, and must be loosened to allow the bearing carrier to rotate before you turn the adjusters on the top of the swingarm bearing carrier housing. If you don't loosen the two large, horizontal bolts, then you will strip out your adjusters or worse, break them.
As far as your breaks go, you need to check all your connections at the reservoir on the handlebars, at the junction down by the steering stem bottom and at the break calipers themselves. You must have had a bad leak, either a loose fixture or a broken line to lose all your fluid. Or, you migt not have had your reservoir cap on tight enough.
Regardless of the cause, you now have to bleed all the air out of your lines. You've got to put the bike on its wheels, and fill up the reservoir not quite to the top. Then, it's a matter of pumping the brake lever and then cracking the 8 mm bleeder valves on the calipers to build up pressure. Unless you have a vacuum system which can pull the fluid through via a hand pump. It's less messy and can create better pressure.
But first you have to retighten all your connections, possibly replace the black rubber bladder in your reservoir and maybe buy new brake lines! Do yourself a favor, buy some stainless steel lines. They hold pressure better, are more durable, don't flex and create a better stopping feel in your brakes.
#5
Thanks for the great advice Raptor149... I'm going to mess the with the brakes tomorrow; gonna get a brake bleeding kit from AutoZone to speed the process....
For the chain, I have to LOOSEN the long bolts first and then tighten the others?
For the chain, I have to LOOSEN the long bolts first and then tighten the others?
#6
#7
Sorry I did miss one step. Yes you need to loosen the long bolts first they are the two 17 mm nuts on the right side of the swingarm near the axle. Then the bolts with the lock nuts are sticking out on the top side of the swingarm. They are your adjusters. If you look close there are little lines etched on the swingarm to kinda measure your adjustment. Just make sure you turn the bolts equally. Example....If you turn one side one and a half turns then the other side must go one and a half turns. If you buy a Clymer manual you can find pretty much any info you need in there. Best investment I've made since buying my quad. Anything you cant find in the manual, someone on here knows.
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