Ok folks, I am on the hunt for more power. I was told by a couple of ds guys aroind here that they took their actual timing coil mount and slotted the mounting holes for timing advance. Now is this process safe and will it make power? I looked at it 2night and i t looks easy enough, I just dont want a crankcase skylight installed in the top of my 11.5to1 je piston. Also is it safe to stack both a big gun cdi and this timing mod?......How far do you move the little booger? Any help wiil be greatly appreciated!!! Thanx.

 

Get an aftermarket CDI. . . it will do the work for you.

The Ron Wood unit does a 5-degree advance. The Vortex is a great unit too (I don't know much about it though so, someone else can chime in on the advance, etc. for it.)

Don't try to do it 1/2 way. . .

 

I doubt that its safe. Like Duneme said rw cdi or vortex will do the job. The RW is a great box but has no rev limit. Possibilty of over reving is pretty good on a miss shift. The Vortex is great also it has 10 curves to choose from, two of them can be toggled back and forth from the bars. Rev limits are in place and can also be reprogrammed for special curves such as nitrous, ect. Check them out, kinda spendy but worth it.

 

Advanceing the timing this way is hard on the starter for cranking and kickback. I would avoid it unless you are running a slow burning fuel and are ready to deal with the negative effects its causes.

 

Thats a good point and something to consider. Sprag clutches are a pain and expensive. I havnt had any problems as of yet with my vortex at 13:1 running VP C-14. I also dont run the decompression lever but it starts fine. I do get an occasional kick back once in a while. Wouldnt surprise me if the sprag take a dump one of these days.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]

 

Yep Ive replaced one and they are proud of them. Dont let it kickback for too long. You can do some damage. I had to replace the flywheel hub and a few other small parts in there

 

I think a better setup would be a vortex with one curve set retarded to make easy starting then flip the handlebar switch to an aggresive curve. lot easier to play with that way to figure out what your motor likes.

 

Good idea

 

Just out of curiosity, how did you come to the conclusion that you need more timing?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

The DS can run all day on 87 octane. If you have a stock machine, you can either run 87 or bump the timing.
87= stock
89= 28 degree's
92= 30 degree's
I run 10.7 compression, 90 octane and 30 degree's for drag's only.

The extra timing increases bottom vacuum signal which is good for a cv carb.

OMR