Do any of you hate the front brakes on your Raptor? I have bled mine and they still suck! They will slide the front tires, but it takes a tremendous amount of lever pressure to do it. Not near as good as my Banshee, and I thought the front brakes are basically the same. I don't really feel that braided steel lines will make a good enough improvement either. I wonder how a different front master cylinder would work...something with a bigger bore diameter, like off of a twin-disc street bike. Has anyone found a good, simple solution to this problem? Any thoughts on the subject would be appreciated.

 

I ride a Honda myself so I have not experianced this kind of problem, but maybe you can add some sort of a hydrallic system to your brake cable. Kind of like you would put on your clutch cable. ex. an easy pull or if you really want to splurge an full hydrallic system. Good luck-
Eddie

 

Is this the complaint of the week? Whats next?

 

Scott, mine was the same way. I picked up the best Brake fluid (synthetic) I could find. Next, I then drained out the entire top reservior by opening each bleeder for a bit (one on each side). Next, pour the new fluid in and pump slowly till you have at least 3/4ths of a brake lever. Now, hold the lever tight and let the bleeder loose for a second (be easier with a bud at this point), then tighten it back up. Do the same on the other side. Repeat bleeding procedure a couple more times for each side and you should have good front brakes. Nothing outstanding...but as good as any other stock machine. Post results! Later!

 

I can only emphasize what they already have said. Buy some good Dot4 and drain the crap out, I think really that alot of dealers dont bleed the air out of the lines. Pump out the old, Pour in the New, and after bleeding the air out, leave the cover off and pump until you get it feeling firm and get all of the bubbles out at the reservoir. Then put the cap back on. You alot of times can do this kind of thing when thinking your brakes are history and they end up better than new. I learned this a while back on my old Polaris Sport, Those things could go through the brakes, but After changing I would notice that the pads where still over 1/2 good. Turns out that changing the fluid and getting out the air makes all of the difference and doesnt cost but about $4 and some time. Just do it when they lose their feel.

 

I bought Fastline Stainless Lines for mine. Front and Rear. There awesome. From spongy to very solid feel just like my streetbike (except the streetbike wasn't that spongy stock)with stainless lines. You can get them through White Brothers. about $130 for front and rear. Later

 

I am curious about your Acerbis hand-guards... I want to get a set but I'm not sure if they will fit my Raptor. I am about to put a set of Tag T2 handlebars (quad bend) and FMF 909 AOF clutch perch and lever on. On their website the brush guards look machine-specific...

Thanks...

'01 Yamaha Raptor 660R


Mods on order:

Tag T2 handlebars
Oury grips
Nac's parking brake block-off
GYT-R full skid plate package
Factory 909 AOF clutch perch kit
Motion-Pro kill switch


Going to order:

Custom Axis shocks
Maxxis Razr tire set
Dura-Blue Eliminator 2+2 axle
CT performance kit

 

Thats comming form someone who drives a POLARIS!! LOL

 

There definately not a direct bolt-on, but I modified them enough to fit with the Renthal bars (banshee bend). Basically the left one fit ok, but the left one I had to trim a decent amount. Once on though there worth the money and if your buying them for cold protection make sure you get the spoilers too. Later

 

Thanks for the CONSTRUCTIVE reply, Quadfather!