Yep that's right, got the 416 in, and i had to remove my pingry to get my headers off. Now what should i do abou the cam? in my manual it says use a moly based grease. what the hail is that? None of the grese i have says anything moly based. I am guessing it is just a common toerm or something.

well, how do you think i did. (i looked more into this shop, and talked to a "smarter" dude, and he answered all my questions.

piston - 130
bore -60
gaskit - 33 didn't want to wait for an order, and found time to get to honda shop
labor - did it myself.. man there are alot of small parts, o well. lol

i am gonna get a cam later, but right now i just want to get things together.

when i get a cam, i am gonna go as wild as pollible and get my rockers hardened and new valve springs, then i'll have some more money (after christmas)

what do ya think?

 

If you are using your OLD cam, apply some oil on it and put that baby in. Have you realized that you can pull the oil drain tubes with some needle-nose pliers (that sit right beside the 2 cam end-bearings) and get the cam in a lot easier? Also, When you are getting the timing set-up, remember to let the marks go just past the alignment location (turning clickwise). It seems like it would be a tooth off, but when you tighten the timing chain tensioner (low on the right side of the head) the chain tightens up and draws back (counterclockwise) to put your engine in time. I learned this the hard way...it wont run and you will have to tear back into the top-end. Note: this is all assuming that the engine is still at top dead center on the compression stroke.

 

ok thx alot.

 

And of course...non synthetic after the rebuild.

 

I understand why you would not want to use a synthetic oil after a rebuild because you want the rings to seat properly in the cylinder but have you ever seen those adds for mobil one synthetic oil that comes in brand new sports cars like the Corvette if I remember correctly. What's up with that? Am I missing something here? Just curious?

 

I dont believe synthetic would hurt it but why take a chance. Conventional oil wont hurt it either. Also, a moly based grease is an "Engine Assembly Lube" which can be bought at a parts store.

 

Good advice, garyc660R!

However, "Note: this is all assuming that the engine is still at top dead center on the compression stroke."

At this stage, all that's important is that the piston is at top dead center (the crank is indifferent whether it's TDC on the compression or exhaust stroke); the position of the cam determines whether you're at TDC on the compression stroke; with the cam index and reference mark nearby, TDC on the compression stroke is defined.

Excellent point about cam chain tension backlash. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.

Diogenes

 

when i was putting it back together i coated the rings, cylinder wall, etc. with non synthetic. But once i got it all together (same day) i just uesed the synthetic. from looking at my old piston, i didn't want to burn oil again. So i took a slight chance. It smoked on decel a little, but that was because it was cleaning what oil was in there. i also pumped the oil around before i started it.

 

I agree it does'nt matter which stroke the crank is on, but their is a timing mark on the crank that when lined up upon assembly, makes future timing easier (one stroke is marked and one is'nt). Thanks for the positive comments.

 

Just to add something really quickly....
Like digs said, Just goto a regular auto parts store and look at their engine assembly lube. Usually it'll say something about it being moly based on the side. Most if not all of the engine assembly lubes are if i'm not mistaken.
Mike