14 tooth for Raptor
#5
I have owned several streetbikes and one tooth on the front is usually only worth about 4mph difference at any rpm this is saying if the bike will pull it to redline and I am sure the raptor will. One tooth up in the front is equal to 2.5 teeth down in the back or vice versa.
#6
Thats what the guy who sold it to me said. It was about the same as going three down in the rear. How much bottom will I lose? Can this be bad for the engine? How much time is it to change the front? Will I have to rejet? I would also like to buy a 12 tooth because I like to ride trails also just want to know if going back and forth is hard on the engine.
#7
Yeah they say 3 cause obviously you cant do 2.5.
It will hurt bottom end but mostly its hard on your clutch on takeoff. You have to slip the clutch more. I havent changed the Raptor front sprocket but it looks easier than on a bike. An air gun helps tremendously because the chain will flex when trying to break the nut loose that holds the sprocket on. After that its a breeze,just loosen the chain and take the sprocket off and put the new one on. I found that when going down a tooth in the front if you go up a couple in the back your chain slack due to smaller sprocket up front is cancelled out although you can adjust it out without the rear sprocket but not after the chain has stretched alot. I also found that it is all in vain if it makes the bike uncontrollable(wheelies)although its still nice not having to slip the clutch as much. Its not hard on the engine, just the clutch.
And no, you dont have to rejet since it has nothing to do with air or fuel. I also found that bikes with a wide powerband like the Raptor do not respond as much to gear changes as "peaky" motors do. Lower gears help keep you in your powerband but if you have a wide powerband to begin with then it doesnt help that much...just easier on takeoff.
It will hurt bottom end but mostly its hard on your clutch on takeoff. You have to slip the clutch more. I havent changed the Raptor front sprocket but it looks easier than on a bike. An air gun helps tremendously because the chain will flex when trying to break the nut loose that holds the sprocket on. After that its a breeze,just loosen the chain and take the sprocket off and put the new one on. I found that when going down a tooth in the front if you go up a couple in the back your chain slack due to smaller sprocket up front is cancelled out although you can adjust it out without the rear sprocket but not after the chain has stretched alot. I also found that it is all in vain if it makes the bike uncontrollable(wheelies)although its still nice not having to slip the clutch as much. Its not hard on the engine, just the clutch.
And no, you dont have to rejet since it has nothing to do with air or fuel. I also found that bikes with a wide powerband like the Raptor do not respond as much to gear changes as "peaky" motors do. Lower gears help keep you in your powerband but if you have a wide powerband to begin with then it doesnt help that much...just easier on takeoff.
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#9
I dont think you will lose any acceleration as long as you slip that clutch a little more. Once you get going it shouldnt make much difference. Actually it could make it easier to keep the front end down resulting in quicker et's. I went a tooth down on one of my bikes at the dragstrip and actually hurt my et. because I had to back out of the throttle to keep the front end down.
#10
Gary,
The 14t didn't kill bottom end on mine like I originally thought. But, it actually helped top end quite a bit. Don't think it'll cure front lift problems, mine seemed easier to raise up with it on...must just be connected with where the torque comes on. Anyway, it was a blast on flat, hard surfaces, but I wouldn't think of taking it to the sand, especially without major performance mods. Open areas, yes...close circuits, no. It made 2nd feel a mile away in the sand without paddles (attempts with paddles would have been pointless. But you have to remember that the effects it has on 5th gear will be a lot different than 1st gear (changes will be logrythmic not linear). It doesn't take long to change it: Loosen the chain adjusts, take off the left foot rest and leave attached to shifter, take off front chain guard, bend out sprocket retainer lock, and break loose the retainer nut. Change the sprocket and reverse the process. I went back and forth at least 6 times, but for the most part, I still stay with a 12t. Either one will be an improvement to the middle of the road 13t, though. Good experimenting!
The 14t didn't kill bottom end on mine like I originally thought. But, it actually helped top end quite a bit. Don't think it'll cure front lift problems, mine seemed easier to raise up with it on...must just be connected with where the torque comes on. Anyway, it was a blast on flat, hard surfaces, but I wouldn't think of taking it to the sand, especially without major performance mods. Open areas, yes...close circuits, no. It made 2nd feel a mile away in the sand without paddles (attempts with paddles would have been pointless. But you have to remember that the effects it has on 5th gear will be a lot different than 1st gear (changes will be logrythmic not linear). It doesn't take long to change it: Loosen the chain adjusts, take off the left foot rest and leave attached to shifter, take off front chain guard, bend out sprocket retainer lock, and break loose the retainer nut. Change the sprocket and reverse the process. I went back and forth at least 6 times, but for the most part, I still stay with a 12t. Either one will be an improvement to the middle of the road 13t, though. Good experimenting!


