Who makes them? Where can I get some? I need them for the icy conditions we have in upstate New York.

 

They are called "ice screws" which is just a fancy name, basically just machine screws with a hex head, you just screw them into the ***** on the tires, make sure your screws arent too long, any kind of screw will work as long as its not too long.
Even if they did make straight from the factory "studded snow tires" you would still have to screw the studs in by hand like with car tires.

 

Where can you get these Ice Screws? Can you get them locally or what is a place i can order them from?

 

they have them in the denniskirk atv catalog, they are just screws, I dont know the size but if I did you could just go to the hardware store and buy them.

 

I have some studded tires on the back of my Blaster. I also have the crazy upstate NY weather to deal with. They are Cheng Shin 18-9.5-8. They have about 2' screws in them (with the sharpend head)....The tire screw combo is great due to the flatness of the tire. "But" don't get screws longer then the ***** of the tires. I got mine already installed so I had no choice. It seems like every time I ride, at least one screw rips out and I'm left flat on the trail....I couldn't even tell you how many cans of fix a flat are in them.....But they do work great when the stay in, And you can put on a great light show at night on dirt roads!.....Dennis Kirk sells all that jazz.

 

hey dbk, u live very close to me maybe we could hook up sometime and go riding. your nighttime shows with your ice screws on the road are pointless! (but it does look cool, i used to do the same with my r) all it does is eat the screws up, when that happens the rounded off screws are actually giving u less traction. ice racers dont even let their screws touch pavement...

-88 250r (gone but not forgotten)
-98 mx banshee #875
-01 raptor

 

cgp, I use 1/2"x#8 sheet metal screws. You should be able to get them at a hardware store or Home Depot type store for about 2 cents each. Or if you know someone in the heating& sheetmetal trade, get a handful from them. Put them in your tires with a 1/4" nut driver, or buy a 1/4" hex bit for your drill, goes a lot faster that way.

 

I have run them for many years in two machines each year.

First. Make sure you have **NEW** tires. Old tires don't have enough rubber on the knobbies. The studs don't do anything to the long term durability of your tires. They will still last as long.

Second. Studs are not sheet metal screws. If you have racing studs you will notice that they rust immediately after a race. They are so hard that there is very little 'stainless' in them, and it is mostly carbon. It makes them extremely hard and durable. I don't have an internet site for you but a few phone calls should locate some for you.

Third. Use a drill with a clutch so you don't over tighten. When finished, it is best to hand torque each screw so that they are set.

Fourth. Blow the tire up more than what you will run them at. This will expand the knobbies somewhat so that when you let the air out, the rubber will grab onto the screws even more. (You need to have a warm environment to do this, not out in the snow. You don't get them well seated).

Fifth. Use as many studs as warranted. If you want a little traction, put a stud in each knobbie. For more traction put two. You could use 100 studs for a tire or 200 depending on your use. For racing, you could use 300-500.

Sixth. Be aware of the studs. DO NOT TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF THE FOOTPEGS!!!. I know this sounds simple, but once you have seen what they do to any type of footwear, you will understand. Nothing will protect you. Leather is like a wet paper towel against studs.

Seventh. Do the front wheels as well. With all that grip driving you forward, your wheels won't steer without studs. Try it and you will know what I mean. You need them to steer and brake. (Kind of funny. I usually put studs on so that I can stop. I can get going pretty fast in the snow and on the ice, but just try and stop or avoid some open water.....)

Eight. Take them out. Do not let them get so worn down that you can't put a wrench or socket on them to remove 'em. It looks really funny when you are stopped in the summer and it looks like your tires have dots on all the knobbies. Once the heads are worn off, you risk the shafts going into the tire and causing a major headache to get them out.

Question: Are some studs better than no studs? A: Absolutely. If you want to get sheet metal screws and try them out, by all means, go ahead. Some grip is better than none. They just won't last as long.

Question: Do I have to do this inside or can I do this in the snow? A. As above, some is better than none. Just the steps recommended will do it better.

As someone else said, don't ride on the pavement and expect the studs to hold up. They won't.

There is nothing quite like climbing a frozen waterfall in the winter, or racing down a frozen river with a dozen other yahoos. Try wheelying across a lake. Those guys that can hold 'em for a long time can go forever.

Enjoy. Do some winter maintenance before you go out, and you will enjoy the time in the snow. (Lube cables, charge batteries, extra spark plugs, etc...)

RM