2003 arctic cat 400 stalls when warm
#1
I bought a 2003 arctic cat 400 atv new in 03. It only has 500 miles on it. Recently I've had a problem with my wheeler running rough once it warms up and it stalls. It will idol but will not allow me to give it any gas. It starts and runs fine cold, and runs fine for 15mins or so until it gets warmer. Then stalls and wont start until it cools again. My uncle seems to think its a diode, but i have no clue.
Any ideas as to what may be happening here? I would appreciate some advise.
Thanks!
Any ideas as to what may be happening here? I would appreciate some advise.
Thanks!
#3
Thanks for responding. I did check that, I pulled the hose out from where it runs down by the handle bars and was able to blow through it into the tank. I will check it again though.
Any other ideas by chance if this isn't the issue?
Any other ideas by chance if this isn't the issue?
#4
It could be bad gas,dirt,trash in the carburator ; has it sat up for any long period's of time like say during the winter ? Gasoline get's stale pretty fast in small amount's doesn't take a month for it to go bad in carb's or even a halve to full tank in a quad ! I alway's add a fuel stabilizer to my gas in all my gas jug's and even in the gas tank of my quad as added protection again't fuel going bad , and as for dirt and trash getting into the carburator i added a fuel filter between the fuel line coming from the gas tank to the carburator ; this will filter out dirt,trash and water from getting from the tank into the carburator ! Most quad's only have a fuel filter in the gas tank usally attached to the fuel petcock and they just don't provide enough protection alone to get the job done right. I've used stabil for most of the 20 plus yrs that i've been in the small engine repair industry, but i started using Seafoam every since i bought my first new ATV ; Feb.-07-2006 i bought an 06' Arctic Cat 400 FIS Auto 4x4 ! It has sat up 3 to 4 week's at a time between ride's during this past winter , but i put some Seafoam in with every new tank full and i'v not had problem one since ! If it's a dirty carburator you'll have to pull it off and do a good cleaning , then i would install an inline fuel filter to prevent this from happening again ; and start mixing your fuel with the Stabil or Seafoam . You can get the seafoam from Oreillys auto parts for $5.99 well worth the price as it work's as a fuel cleaner/stabilizer and will also clean out the entire fuel system and combustion chamber. Have you ever had the valve clearance checked , my owner's manual say's to have the valve's checked and adjusted if needed at Initial 100 miles after break-in and every 500 miles or 6 month's after that , these two thing's are what i would do first before anything else ! Sorry for the long reply i just want to help out if i can , hope you get her going a.s.p. ; williebee !
#5
Thank you so much for your input Williebee! My wheeler has sat for extended periods of time without stablizer in the gas. I've also wondered about a fuel filter, tried to find one on it the other day with no luck. Now i know why. I will definatley install one now.
I have not had the valves clearance checked/adjusted. I should probably just take it to the dealer and have them go over it and adjust the valves if needed. I will also start using stablizer in my gas. Thanks for that tip too. I would really like to think this isn't going to be a costly problem.
Thanks again!!!
I have not had the valves clearance checked/adjusted. I should probably just take it to the dealer and have them go over it and adjust the valves if needed. I will also start using stablizer in my gas. Thanks for that tip too. I would really like to think this isn't going to be a costly problem.
Thanks again!!!
#6
It sounds like something is dirty or needs adjusting as Williebee stated.
As for it not being costly I think shop fees are $90 an hour here and it will probably take at least 1 if not 2 hours for them to adjust the valves and clean your carb for you. So I would not be surprised if it cost you around $200.
I pesonally am a cheap skate, so I would do it myself, but then again it will take me longer but my time is free.
I would suggest that you get a service manual and do it yourself. If you are just a little bit mechanically inclined you should do fine.
Welcome to the forum.
SJ
As for it not being costly I think shop fees are $90 an hour here and it will probably take at least 1 if not 2 hours for them to adjust the valves and clean your carb for you. So I would not be surprised if it cost you around $200.
I pesonally am a cheap skate, so I would do it myself, but then again it will take me longer but my time is free.
I would suggest that you get a service manual and do it yourself. If you are just a little bit mechanically inclined you should do fine.
Welcome to the forum.
SJ
#7
If you can't find 'Seafoam', I do a similar thing with Marvel Mystery Oil, dry gas, carb/injector cleaner. It it is going to sit for a period of time (which it seldom does - I ride it year around) I add stabil. I got a gas filter for a lawnmower/snomobile/small engines at VIP auto store for $0.99.
Like others have mentioned get your gas system clean, also try putting in a new spark plug and make sure it is gapped correctly....
Other than that I am BD (brain-dead)...
Like others have mentioned get your gas system clean, also try putting in a new spark plug and make sure it is gapped correctly....
Other than that I am BD (brain-dead)...
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#9
Coil. That's what it sounds like to me, they usually fail when they get hot. If it was a fuel related issue, it would run like crap no matter what the temp. It sits above the motor, surrounded by plastic and under the tank, so it would get hot quickly. I would try that first.
#10
Well either way it goes, stale gas,dirt/trash in carb, valve clearance or bad coil you will need to get a new spark plug ; so to check for a bad coil/stator/retifier or CDI box going bad ? Easy way to check out if it's a firing problem is to start the engine, let it run untill it stall's out and won't start back up is pull the spark plug boot from plug; snap boot onto new plug and ground new spark plug to metal on engine /say one of the cooling fin's on head ; and crank engine over and look or listen for pop or spark at gap of new plug ! This will rule out a bad coil.still sound's to me like bad gas or valve clearance, or even gummed up valve's ; not saying you're wrong about coil but this test will let you know for sure if it's a firing issue for sure ! williebee


