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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 11:27 PM
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Default crank bearings

im trying to replace the bearings on my '00 250 trailblazer. i seem to be stuck at getting the gear that runs the oil pump off of the crankshaft. is there some way to get it off without tearing it up more than i already have?
i have a bearing splitter and it took the two on the otherside off relatively easy but it just wont pop up the stator side
 
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 11:39 PM
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Default crank bearings

Pull the bearing with the splitter, and let it pull the oil pump drive gear off with it. Dont try pulling the gear off by itself.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 11:42 PM
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Default crank bearings

i cant get either one of them to move. i tried it that way to first time. didnt budge. tried just taking the gear off. sorta chipped the splines on the spider gear on the edges *just a little bit*. so tomorrow im gonna try putting a torch to it and see if it wont break loose then.
also, what would be the easiest way of installing the new bearings and the spider gear short of a shop press?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 10:29 AM
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Default crank bearings

Put the assembly in the freezer, then try the puller. Doc
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 12:44 PM
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Default crank bearings

Use a bearing seperator and a press - take them off together. Don't use a torch.

Rick
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 08:49 PM
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Default crank bearings

so after about 8 hours of intense cussing at the crankshaft i finally convinced it to let go of the bearing and worm gear. my next question is what order are the bearings supposed to go back on? can i install them in the case halves and then put the crank in or do i have to put them on the crank and then install the case halves?
also, what would be the safest method without using a shop press?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 09:22 PM
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Default crank bearings

DON"T use a shop press unless you are putting the bearings in the case first(which I wouldn't recommend doing) Never press the crank into the cases whether the bearings are on it or in the case. Big no-no. I would put all the bearings back onto the crank(with any shims you may have taken off)
You're suppose to measure the cases, crank, brgs and then determine what shim you need and then reassemble it. Thats your call. It's my experience that bearings these days are so damn close in size you can put the old shims in with new bearings and not have any trouble(believe me I've measured hundreds of them)
Put all the shims, new bearings and oil pump gear back on the crank. Put the crank in the freezer. Yes I said the freezer. Clean all the sealer off both cases and clean them both very well. Don't put the crank seals in yet. Get your cases, sealer, bolts, and a butane torch ready. Use gloves. Warm the pto side up with the torch. Grab the crank while it's cold and the case is still hot and a lot of times it will drop right in. No pressing involved. If it doesn't go the first time, try again. When you get the crank in the pto side you can do a couple things. You can warm up the mag side and do the same thing(problem is the sealer dries when you warm that half up) I put the sealer on the mag side and install it at room temp, and use the bolts to "Pull" it on. Tighten in small increments so it goes on evenly. Torque to spec(I'm at home and don't remember the spec so I can't give it to you right now) When you are completely together with the bottom end, use a rubber mallet and hit both ends of the crank while holding the crankcase. Don't beat it like a railroad spike, just try to seat it. Make sure the crank spins freely, done. If it doesn't(which I've never had happen yet) you may need to pull it back apart and measure. Lube the hell out the bearings and rod, reassemble the rest of the motor. Don't forget your crank seals like I almost forgot to tell you to install:-) Good luck.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 05:38 PM
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Default crank bearings

thanks 94harley, ur instructions worked like a charm cept for one change. instead of using a propane torch i washed the halves in water then put them in an oven @215 degrees for 20minutes and put the crank with bearings in the freezer for about 2 hours. it went together great with one small detail. the crank turns but when it gets to one spot its a little touch to get it to go past that spot. does that sound like i damaged the bearings installing them or is it just not put together right. maybe a shim needs to be removed? i didnt measure the case halves just put it together.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 09:49 AM
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Default crank bearings

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: eggenz7

thanks 94harley, ur instructions worked like a charm cept for one change. instead of using a propane torch i washed the halves in water then put them in an oven @215 degrees for 20minutes and put the crank with bearings in the freezer for about 2 hours. it went together great with one small detail. the crank turns but when it gets to one spot its a little touch to get it to go past that spot. does that sound like i damaged the bearings installing them or is it just not put together right. maybe a shim needs to be removed? i didnt measure the case halves just put it together.</end quote></div>

It doesn't matter how they are heated, just as long as they you get them warm. When you warm them up they expand, when you cool them off the contract in size and fall together. Did you hit each end of the crank with a rubber mallet? It may not be seated all the way. In my experience you usually don't have to change the amout of shims. Try that and see. It should turn freeley all the way around.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2007 | 09:38 PM
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Default crank bearings

yes i did hit both ends with a mallet. when i loosen the crankcase bolts the crank turns like it should. if i tighten them up the crank is hard to turn. ive taken it apart and taken one out of two shims off the crank same exact scenario. have i maybe messed something up somewhere along my way? im kinda worried cuz this would make it 2 and 0, motors have it.
 
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