i am not geting any oil what can i do does any body have a solution any diagrams of repair or blocking off and pre mix [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

Blocking off lines and premix is a fix that cost nothing and is simple.

 

To check if it is pumping oil, first add some premix to the gas tank (so it doesn't starve for oil). This is best done on a nearly empty fuel tank, I like to drain it dry, add a gallon of gas, and then measure oil for 1 gallon of premix.

Now, remove the oil fitting on the intake by the carb. Just one bolt, but there are washers to watch so they don't get lost.

Remove the cover to the oil pump so you can access the linkage the throttle cable goes to.

Start the engine & observe if oil is pumping through (it will be a small amount).
Now, move the pump lever to the 'wide open' position. Oil should come out notably faster (but still pretty slow). What you are looking for is an increase in oil flow to verify the pump linkage is working.

Put everything back together, and drive around a little, so if any air got in the oil line, it has time to be pumped through.

Fill with gas, and ride happy, knowing your pump is working.

If the oil pump doesn't work as described, add premix to the tank, if you must drive it until you get it fixed. A fouled plug or two is far cheaper than a seized engine.


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Polaris, Injector Pump Care, 2-cycles only
For owners of the 2 cycle oil-injected engines, there are a few tips you should know about. Listed is for the 400 engine, but most should apply to the 250 & 300 as well.
About once a year or so, the oil injector adjustment should be checked. This is pretty simple & explained in the owner's manual, but here is a refresher:
-Remove the injector pump cover (easy to find, just follow the oil line from the tank) and look carefully inside.
-There should be an index mark on the linkage arm the cable connects to, and another cast into the pump housing itself.
-Have a friend (or you can use a rubber band in a pinch) apply pressure to the throttle lever to the point where the throttle is just about to start opening, but doesn't. The marks should be in line. If not, adjust the cable so they are.
Now for the rest of the story. The cables sometimes get rusty, or the lube dries out of them. Since thumb pressure opens it up to pump more oil, but a small spring returns the lever to it's idle position, they almost always stick 'open' if they stick. Symptoms include 'burning oil' odor, excess smoke, and fouled spark plugs. If the cable just appears 'dry', remove the seat & left side panel. Find where the 2 cables connect into one. You can open this up with gentle persuasion. Apply lube to the cable that goes down to the injector, and make sure it works freely. If it is rusted, about all you can do is replace the cable.
Sometimes, moisture gets in the box. It is a good idea to spray WD-40 in there after doing your annual calibration check. This will disperse any moisture, and help seal it out better for next time. Not only does moisture cause rust, it can freeze things up in cold weather. If, after riding through snow, slush, or water the throttle seems 'stuck' in below-freezing temps, the first place to look is the injector pump box.


There's a few marks on the pump linkage don't get them confused, the pictures suck, I agree.
Look at the orientation in the diagram more than anything, it should be near 7-8 0'clock.
The housing has a raised area with a mark and the cable pivot slide ?(half circle) has a line mark too that aligns with it.
I used a small mirror to see it better at a distance, I have the same problem when I stick my head in there too!! -lol :wacko:

I don't think its the mark on the end of the slide/cable its more in the middle but the housing mark is around 8 o'clock and the mark on the slide should be too.

Jim

 

does any body know the correct oil mixture to gas if you premix