Ok, I just rebuilt my carrier and played the part of the sacrificial lamb. If you're not doing a rear rebuild, don't bother reading. This is a how to.

1st. DO NOT order the Parts Unlimited Warrior Carrier Rebuild kit. It's 84.95 plus tax and it's the WRONG SIZE! 1/4" too wide, 1/4" too small on the outer race O.D.

2nd. DO NOT order the Yamaha Genuine Parts Kit. It's 164.95, and that's a rip off.

I went to Purvis Bearings in Tyler Texas and got 2 SKF mid grade bearings for 10.99 each. I also got 2 SKF oil seals for 4.95 each. SKF is the leading manufacturer of U.S. built bearings, and their lowest grade is WAY better than the Yama kit. For future reference, the bearing size is 68mm x 40mm. The oil seals are 68mm x 48mm x 8mm. Next, take a trip to the local machine shop to get 1 foot of 1/8 wall 40mm I.D. steel tubing for a whopping 12 bucks. I happened to have some stainlees laying around, so I got off a little better. Finally, go find an alumite or zerk fitting at a local parts shop for about 2 bucks. You probably aren't more than 2 hours from a bearing shop, and if you are, you'll have to order anyways. The odds of any shop having a rebuid kit in stock are rare.

Now to get it apart......no you aren't missing anything. It's just really THAT hard. Take off the wheels and hubs, lock nuts, sprocket hub, and your caliper, and drop your carrier from your swingarm. You kinda wanna do the next steps in a vice. I had to use a 16lb sledge and a 1/2 thick, ft. long punch. That was after I delicatly cut the races in half with a cutting torch so as not to warp or destroy the carrier or the axle, and then heated the carrier, while my friend beat the hell out of it.

You got two choices, Get the setup pressed together by a machine shop for about 20 - 30 bucks, or do it yourself. I did it, not bad at all. Tearing it down was WAY worse. First, use your old spacer as a guide to cut your tubing to length. Drill one 3/8" hole in the center of the spacer. This will allow grease to move underneath the spacer in the concave portion of the axle, making it harder to seize. Yes you have to use a spacer, or your rear end will cave while you turn. Now drill and tap your carrier for the zerk fitting. Deburr the iside of the carrier. do not install the zerk yet, just test fit. Now, lightly grease the bearing seat of the brake hub side of the carrier. Set the bearing level on the carrier. Take a peice of hardwood and a hammer, and start the bearing. After the bearing is flush with the carrier, take a piece of the scrap tubing and use it as a punch on top of BOTH races. NEVER hit on the inside, or outside race alone. That will KILL your bearings. Once that bearing is set, lightly grease the iside of the spacer. Put the spacer inside of the carrier. Start and set the other bearing. Somewhat line up the inside races with the spacer. Gently pressin the seal on the brake side. Get a piece of smaller pipe. Th idea is to go over the wheel hub splines on the brakes side. Put that pipe on a piece of 2x4 on the ground. Slide your brake hub on the axle. Now slide the carrier, brake mount down, onto the axle. Put one hand on the axle above the carrier, and the other on the pipe over your splines. Lift about one to two ft. and butt it into the 2x4. about 10 times and the carrier will be close to the set position. Put your sprocket hub on. Now, one lock nut. Tighten the **** out of it. I used a giant cresent and a pipe wrench, with a pipe on each for leverage. This will competely set the seals and bearings. Put the other locknut on. screw in the zerk fitting. Hook up the grease gun and give it 3 full pumps. Now, take the fitting back off. If you don't, the air in your newly sealed carrier will pressurize, and could bust your brand new seals. Put the zrk back on and give it 3 more pumps. That's enough grease. You're done. I suggest dropping the swing arm and checking all the pivot points for rust, and wear. Clean with degreaser and a wire brish attachment on an air dremel. Dry, reassemble, and add grease. Once you have the parts, the whole thing should take 4-6 hours if you drop the swing arm also.

I sure wish someone told me. I had to figure it out.