I bought a Jato 110cc atv for my son and I can't get it to run properly. After reading some of the info on this site. I changed the spark plug to a NKG. I also cleaned the carb very good. Those things did allow me to start it but I still can't set the carb correctly. No matter how I set the carb it seems irratic and it will quit everytime you put it in gear and hit the gas. I'm thinking I would be better of just buying a different carb. Any suggestions on what carb will work as a replacement would be appreciated.

The manufacture of this atv is guagdony Jialing. It is imported by Tomoto Industries. The carb says KEIKHIN Japan on it. There is no other info on the carb.

If you have any suggestions let me know.

 

keep the keihin carbuertor (made in japan), it one of the best ones for the 110's. most chinese (almost all) quads uses the chinese standard of japan carbs. take the carb apart and clean it sounds like some factory crap from the fuel lines or tank may have plugged up the jets or passage ways. you also might want to add or replace the fuel filter at this time with a good one.

 

I already removed and boiled this carb. That along with the new spark plug allowed me to get it started. Even though it will start it wont run under a load. As soon as you put it in gear it stalls.

I'll try cleaning it again after I change the fuel filter. If anyone knows the proper setting for the air-fuel and idol screws on these small carbs please let me know. As I've had no luck fine tuning it.

 

sounds like just more than a simple carb adjustment, but here's how to adjust the carb, screw the mixture screw in all the way without over tighting, just snug, then turn screw out 2 full turns, start atv, once warmed up then start turning both differant ways until you obtain the highest possible rpm's at idol. once you reach the hightest rpm's then reset the engines idol to 1500-1600 rpm's. that's it.
if you purchased this atv used then you might need to do a valve adjustment. for instructions on this you can e-mail me luvmysxs@yahoo.com

 

Well I cleaned the carb again. I also changed the fuel filter and drained the gas tank (added new gas). I have a good nkg spark plug but it still wont run. In fact it wont even stay running now. It starts but stalls before I can even try to adjust the carb. It isn't used it's new only rode a handful of times.

I sent you an e-mail about the valve adjustment.

 

On my 110 with the Keikhin carb, the idle/low speed adjustment screw (rearward screw) it ended up being ONLY 1/4 turn back off bottom. Drove me NUTS for about an hour (starting at the standard 1-1/2 turns off bottom). Try starting the adjustment from this 1/4 turn.

If you get the idle - low speed straightened out, the mid to high RPM mixture is fine tuned by the 'needle' position in the throttle 'slide'. Start out in the middle of the 5 slots and 'read' the plug.

 

I triied starting at 1/4 turn on the idle screw. Nothing changed, it still will start with the choke. Then as it worms up and the chock is completely off it will run a few seconds then stall. I can re-start it 2 or 3 times then it will know longer start. Each of the re-starts last only a few seconds. I have noticed that it seems to be running to rich (the spark plug gets black). The air-fuel screw is set at 2 turns off bottom and the needle is set in the middle of the 5 settings. Also if you try to give it any throttle it stalls.

I'm thinking luvmysxs is rite in thinking there's more to it than just the carb.

Any sugesstions would be appreciated

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: hwsmike

I triied starting at 1/4 turn on the idle screw. Nothing changed, it still will start with the choke.</end quote></div>

NOT the 'idle speed' screw, which is the 'forward' screw.

Try setting the 'idle mixture' screw, which is the 'rearward' screw, at 1/4 turn from bottom as a beginning setting.

Also, leave off the rubber hose to the air filter, while you are trying to get it running right.

 

I tried the 1/4 turn out on the air-fuel mix screw. That did allow me to keep it running long enough to make some adjustments. Nomatter what I did I couldn't get it just rite. It still made a little popping sound. Also still stalls as soon as it's put in gear. After several tries it would no longer start. I checked the spark plug and it was black. Also checked for spark at the end of the plug and had none. I've now burned up two spark plugs triing to get this thing to run.

anyother suggestions

 

Maybe the 'float level' is set too high in the carb, which will 'flood' it out (rich). Remove the carb from the engine. Remove the fuel bowl. Invert the carb. Hold the mating surface that the fuel bowl attaches to perfectly level (by eye). Some part of the float assembly (molding seem or bottom surface of float) should also be perfectly level (or in other words, parallel to the bowl mating surface). If float is "hanging down' or 'below' the parallel position, then the float needle is not closing soon enough and the carb is flooding out. Remove 'slide pin' on the float assembly. Carefully lift float with needle valve still attached up and away from carb top. Note the position of the 'little hair pin' that holds the needle valve to the float. Remove needle valve and hair pin from the float. Inspect the 'little rubber tip' on the pointed end of the needle valve for any damage. Now go back to the float and find the 'little flat metal tab' that the needle valve and hair pin clip were hanging from - bend this tab, in the direction toward where the needle valve war hanging, ever so slightly (only .005" to .010"). Reassemble the needle valve and float assembly, invert the top of the carb and check float for 'level'. If not 'level' - repeat process. DO NOT bend the tab with the needle valve installed - you will destroy the little rubber tip on the end of the needle valve.

In the hundreds of carbs that I have worked on - I have NEVER seen one that the proper float level setting did not work out to be the same as setting the float to be 'parallel' to the mating surface of the fuel bowl to the top of the carb (properly referred to as the 'air horn') when the whole assembly was held 'up side down'.

For your 'fowled' plugs - you can clean them up with a small wire brush and small file or #400 sand paper on the electrode and firing tip. Once the engine is running right it will probably 'burn away' most of the extra black fluffy carbon.