I ajusted the float, It was not parallel as you suspected. That did help some as the spark plug looked better. An it would idle for a short time once put in gear. Still can't give it any gas when it's in gear or it stalls. I soaked the carb in carb cleaner, rinsed it out and blew everything out with my air compresser after I adjusted the float. Just to make sure it was good and clean. I can't find any reason for it not to run. Any other suggestions.

I've had it with this carb!

 

I have ever faced to a similar symptom. At that time, the engine was sucking, that is to say, "Secondary-air" though the connecting part between Carb and Insulator, shown as 2 in the pic.
http://s280.photobucket.com/al..._peripheral_edit1.jpg

Sometimes, not only loosen screws cause the 2ndary air problem, but mysterious designed circulators do. The below pic shows a Chinese carb which has a pin at the center of the o-ring. The rubber ring does not work correctly for sealing.
http://s280.photobucket.com/al...ent=2nd_air_cause.jpg

The adequate location can be seen in the Japanese carb.
http://s280.photobucket.com/al...iew&current=Cab_pb.jpg

 

I looked up the 'jets' that were installed on my 'Keihin' 19mm carb installed on an 110 cc and they were marked; Idle jet - K33, Main jet - K72

Also, Spray any type of aerosol liquid wrench (WD40) with the 'straw' around various mating surfaces for the intake and cab flanges - with the engine running. If RPM increases - then you have a vacuum air leak (the WD40 is a 'hydrocarbon' so it acts like 'fuel').

 

I didn't find any leaks. My carb measures 19mm at the intake side of the carb. The jets are 32 & 75. After some research I'm starting to think that my slow jet is to small. I know it's fouling plugs but it also needs almost no air to run. This makes me think it's not getting enough fuel at low speed.

What do you think

 

Do you have the Air Filter and air inlet hose disconnected from the carb, while trying to diagnosis and get the thing running ???

A 32 and 75 jets should be 'close enough' to get it running fairly well - jetting changes beyond that would be 'fine tuning'.

It 'REALLY' sounds like you are 'air restricted' as opposed to fuel adjustment problems.

ALL Chinese Air Filters are CRxP.

 

Went and triied starting it without the air filter. It will start up and run but not for long. If I have the mix screw set at 1 turn out or less it will run for a minute or two till it fowls the plug. If I have the mix screw at 1 1/2 turn out it will start run for a few seconds then stall. The plug doesn't seem to be fowled out. As the color stays the same as it was when I put it in. It just acts as if it ran out of fuel. Nomatter where I set the mix screw it does one of the too things I just discribed.

I also set the valve gap as the link you posted showed. Unfortunately I don't know if they needed adjustment or not. As I first set them 180 degrees off. When I rechecked the link before triing to start it I relised my mistake and corrected it. I set them at between .002 & .003 as would be normal for a old Honda motor.

About the only things I havent checked are the exect amount of compression, the exact amount of spark or voltage out put of the stater and the condition of the valves an piston.

If you have any other suggestions send them my way. I'm out of ideas and no one around here seems to want to work on these things.

Thanks for the help so far

 

Maybe it is just a 'bad' carb - the tolerances on a carb are so 'tight' and so 'critical' that if they are 'off'; it is almost 'impossible' to find out where they are 'wrong'. At this point - maybe a new replacement carb will be the best solution.

One other point to check; I don't remember if that carb has a 'removable seat' on the fuel inlet valve (the valve that the 'float' works) or not. Most automobile carbs do have a removable brass float valve seat that comes with the carb rebuild kit (along with the vicron tipped needle vale). If it does have a removable brass seat - remove it and 'inspect it' - the vicron tipped needle valve should seat 'squarely' and 'evenly' within the valve seat. There should also be some type of 'o-ring' or nylon gasket to seal the brass seat to the place that the brass seat screws into. If all this is OK - then just go for a replacement carb. Good Luck.

 

I'm definetly going to try a new carb. Do you have any idea what carbs work on these little Chinese 110cc quads? The one I have has a 19mm opening at the intake. The bolt holes are approxitately 1 7/8 or 48mm. Also what's a good filter to use on these quads? Mine goes on the carb with a 1 3/8 or about 35mm opening.

 

Great Carb & Airfilter Combo:

http://www.kidatvs.com/Parts/carb.php

http://www.kidatvs.com/Parts/HPAirfilter.php

 

we have 2 hibirds qh110st we purshased at the same time the only differance is the color, one came with the keihin carb and the other with the standard of japan carb, both are 19mm. after shinning the needle .015 the in the standard of japan carb i can't tell any differance between the two, both start without choke and run very well. our grandkids ride in very dusty conditions so we use 11/4" x 3" unifilter on both quads, i had to tapper the flange on the filter a little so i could slid them on the carb, otherwise they will not fit.