Hey guys I need some ideas here please. My buddy just bought an 03 Grizzly 660 at a heck of a deal and there are some issues with the front end.

It's pulling a little to the right and the left tire looks cambered out on the top. It looks like the previous owner may have hit something. Is an alignment possible to do ourselves or should a dealer handle that. They want $100 to diagnose before they fix anything.

Also, at the point that the left cv axle goes into the transfer case in the front, there is a small amount of gap (1/2 inch) and has some play (1/4 inch), in and out movement. Is this normal or is the axle suppose to butt against the case like the right side.

We have not ordered the shop manual jet or jacked it up to test the 4X4 system, but are planning on doing that tonight.

I've read in other treads that the right side of the front 4X4 system will free-wheel and the left side will be attached to the gear and not free-wheel. Is this correct?

Thanks for the help, ya'll have been such a great tool in the past.

 

When in normal limited slip 3x4 mode the front wheel with the least traction get the power while the other wheel free wheels. In diff lock its a true awd with all wheels pulling. Yes 1/4" of play sounds like to much play get it looked at.

If one axle has play and the opposite axle does not have the same play, then you know somethings wrong.

 

ok, I'll make sure that we put it in diff lock when we test it. I don't hear any noise coming from the joints, which I guess is a good thing. After searching some of the other threads, it appears that it could be that the axle has come out of the case. Someone mentioned that there is a ring clip that holds the axle in place. Some said that if you pull the axle out, you will need a new clip and some said you can use the same clip. Any advice there. I think tonight we will take the wheel off and make sure the axle is in all the way into the case.

Also, I've heard that the 03' grizzly has a poor cv setup. What are the odds that we will be replacing the entire axle. The boots are clean and not cracked. Everything looks good except for the joint (green thing) not being flush with the transfer case. this machine has only 140 hours and 300 miles on it.

Is there anything else we should know before diving into it?

Thanks again, Eric

 

Update: We hiked the atv up and found that the 4X4 is working well. That is in 3x4 (non-diff.) that if we hold one wheel that is will not spin and the other will and in diff. lock, both will spin even when we hold them. No sound is coming out except for the electric engagement of the gear. Everything looks fine.

Now to the problem we found. The CV axle can be pushed (with some force) back into place, but can just as easily be pulled out of socket. Tell me if I am wrong, but that tells me that something pulled the axle out and bent/broke the circle pin that holds the axle in. We did not have time to take the axle all the way out tonight to check. Also, It appears that the previous owner hit something and it has "maybe" bent the a-frame suspension in at the bottom of the ball joint causing the axle to pull out and break the pin/ring.

My questions:

Has anyone seen this before? Should we take it in to the dealer or is there a way to diagnose/fix it at my house?

What do dealers typically charge for replacing a lower a arm? Do they bend easily?

What do they charge for an alignment?

Thanks in advance!

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: redphone106

What do dealers typically charge for replacing a lower a arm? Do they bend easily?

What do they charge for an alignment?

Thanks in advance!</end quote></div>

If you are fairly handy with tools... you can replace the A-Arm and even do the alignment.... I am attaching a link to the 2003-2006 Kodiak 450. But the front ends are basically the same... as well as the wheel alignment procedure (See page 115 of 397 (3-48))

Shops charge $50-$90 an hour for labor.. and you will get wacked with at least 3 hours for that job...


Manual

http://www.savefile.com/files/74511

The link for the manual works but sometimes you just need to work it a bit...


1. Click the link in the Message
2. Scroll down to the Section in the BLUE Box that says "05-06 Kodiak 450" and Click "DOWNLOAD FILE"
3. Your download SHOULD start...

IF NOT

4. Scroll down to the Bottom.... where you will see
" Your download should begin shortly.
If it does not, try <u>Download file now</u> "


That should do the trick [img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/beer.gif[/img]

 

Great! Thanks for that. I'll check it out!

 

i suggest in doing any repair you can to avoid playing the stealership.

my 99 big bear front axles have no play so i am betting your correct in your diagnosis. it wont be that bad in changing that a arm. just check and double check everything while your doing it. remember, treat it like a car and dont tighten the a arms all the way without the quads weight sitting on the wheel. this will help prevent the bushings from binding up when you torque them down.

since your doing this amount of work to the quad, it would not hurt to change the differential oil while your working on it. my quad has the oil type stamped on both the front and rear. mine takes 80w90 GL5 gear oil. so i get that free at work. if i could only get yamalube free..................

 

had the same issue with mine pulling on the right and making a weir noise. we took off the wheel took appart the nuckle cleaned it and put in new grease. important to install new boots when u do that