Magnum troubles
#1
Man. Got it for free... 97 Magnum. Didnt run they said... I have a spark, and it looks like a good one. Stator tested out of range, so I did the bobbin replacement from Ricky Stator. After install... still tested out of range. Still have a spark. Have fuel getting in. Feels like good compression, but cant test it because of pressure relief valve and I dont have a leak down tester. So fuel, spark compression all ok. When I feel the exhaust pipe it almost feels like a "sucking" then "exhaust" type feeling.
When its at TDC the valves are closed and theres free play adjusted correctly... so mechanically seems like its in time. Stator plate is aligned with mark too. I have the feeling that the timing is off somehow? Could it have jumped the chain... the cam chain? Can a system component throw the timing off? Heck as far as I know the stator is still bad even after the ricky stator fix. Can anyone provide ideas? Next Im going to tear it all down (motor). Frustrated...
When its at TDC the valves are closed and theres free play adjusted correctly... so mechanically seems like its in time. Stator plate is aligned with mark too. I have the feeling that the timing is off somehow? Could it have jumped the chain... the cam chain? Can a system component throw the timing off? Heck as far as I know the stator is still bad even after the ricky stator fix. Can anyone provide ideas? Next Im going to tear it all down (motor). Frustrated...
#2
Flywheel key sheared can cause timing to jump,SUCKING noise at exhaust? Leaking valves? If dont have leakdown tester only way to see if burnt or leaking is to remove head,pour solvent into intake and exhaust,check if solvent doesn't leak or pours out. A little weepage is acceptable,BUT when I lapp valves I dont quit until there is no leakage! Hope you don't have to go to this trouble on the head. ONLY other component that can throw timing off is the cdi (which takes the place of the old points and condenser) Sounds like you have a wasp nest as we say down here! HOPE maybe some of this helps??? Does it try to start with starting fluid? Or does it backfire?(timing or cam or valve problem?) I think you have already checked cam,stator charge coil along with pickup(trigger coil)??????? Rev limiter can cause loss of spark,but shouldn't affect timing.
#3
Flywheel key is not sheared. I'll buy or rent a leak down test! Forget the solvent, lol. No start with starter fluid, not backfires. White red/white tests within range (trigger). The red and green is ok but black red / green is 0 and black red / red is 0 ohms. How to check cam?
#4
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: apopka_ed
Flywheel key is not sheared. I'll buy or rent a leak down test! Forget the solvent, lol. No start with starter fluid, not backfires. White red/white tests within range (trigger). The red and green is ok but black red / green is 0 and black red / red is 0 ohms. How to check cam?</end quote></div>
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Should be two outer intake lobes and exhaust lobe in center ALL should be eliptical as you slowly turn engine by recoil and look. If cam is problem then center lobe(exhaust) is usually worn or ground down flat! Still sounds like charge coil bad if getting O Ohm readings?
Flywheel key is not sheared. I'll buy or rent a leak down test! Forget the solvent, lol. No start with starter fluid, not backfires. White red/white tests within range (trigger). The red and green is ok but black red / green is 0 and black red / red is 0 ohms. How to check cam?</end quote></div>
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Should be two outer intake lobes and exhaust lobe in center ALL should be eliptical as you slowly turn engine by recoil and look. If cam is problem then center lobe(exhaust) is usually worn or ground down flat! Still sounds like charge coil bad if getting O Ohm readings?
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