1986 250 Trail Boss won't Idle
#1
I have an 86 Trail boss 250, I have a problem with it not wanting to Idle.
I have rebuilt the Top End (new Piston, Rings and Honed Cylinder), Compression is very good but once it is running, It goes from a Hi Idle - (the Pilot Screw has almost no effect where it is adjusted) to stalling when We switch riders or just come to a stop.
I too was told to check for an air/ Vacuum leak thru the crankcase but am finding it hard to find ways to block off the Intake and Exhaust ports properly. Should I just take it to the Dealer and "Bend over" and close my eyes.
Thanks
Timmy from Connecticut
I have rebuilt the Top End (new Piston, Rings and Honed Cylinder), Compression is very good but once it is running, It goes from a Hi Idle - (the Pilot Screw has almost no effect where it is adjusted) to stalling when We switch riders or just come to a stop.
I too was told to check for an air/ Vacuum leak thru the crankcase but am finding it hard to find ways to block off the Intake and Exhaust ports properly. Should I just take it to the Dealer and "Bend over" and close my eyes.
Thanks
Timmy from Connecticut
#2
it does sound like you have an air leak if its high idling and then dropping off. some people use a can of staring fluid to spray around like the crank seal on the clutch or maybe the intake boot. (this spray is highly flammable so maybe use wd-40 or other) if the bike idles up while spraying then you have an air leak. check your intake boot for cracks as well to suck air in. just an idea for ya.

#3
to block off the intake get a pcv cap that fits inside the rubber intake boot..tighten the clamp around it...
for the exhaust cut a piece of inner tube to act like a gasket and get a peice of 1/4" metal and drill the two holes for the studs..put the piece of tube between the cylinder and the 1/4" metal and tighten the nuts on the studs. then do a leakdown test.
for the exhaust cut a piece of inner tube to act like a gasket and get a peice of 1/4" metal and drill the two holes for the studs..put the piece of tube between the cylinder and the 1/4" metal and tighten the nuts on the studs. then do a leakdown test.
#6
Hi Guy's
Thanks for the Help, I have gone thru the Carb like 10 - 15 times, removed the Pilot Jet, complete disassemble, Set Float Level, Main Jet, Slider is seated all the way down, and reassemble of Carb.
Removed the Rubber Carb flange, I have a Spare engine (seized, Bad Piston) that I removed the Carb Flange, put a small amount of sealant and installed to the Intake side. My Exhaust flange and pipe are wet, I figured it was oil residue ?
I will have to remove the Pull starter and side cover to see if there's movement at the Crank.
I would assume the Crank Bearing's and seals are bad right now as it is a 1986.
How easy is it to change the Crank Bearings ? I have seen how the Seals could be pulled out using the "Sheet Metal Screw" trick but how are the bearings Removed ??
Should I just bring it to a Dealer at this point ?
Thanks again
Timmy from Connecticut
Thanks for the Help, I have gone thru the Carb like 10 - 15 times, removed the Pilot Jet, complete disassemble, Set Float Level, Main Jet, Slider is seated all the way down, and reassemble of Carb.
Removed the Rubber Carb flange, I have a Spare engine (seized, Bad Piston) that I removed the Carb Flange, put a small amount of sealant and installed to the Intake side. My Exhaust flange and pipe are wet, I figured it was oil residue ?
I will have to remove the Pull starter and side cover to see if there's movement at the Crank.
I would assume the Crank Bearing's and seals are bad right now as it is a 1986.
How easy is it to change the Crank Bearings ? I have seen how the Seals could be pulled out using the "Sheet Metal Screw" trick but how are the bearings Removed ??
Should I just bring it to a Dealer at this point ?
Thanks again
Timmy from Connecticut
#7
Well I did it, I Replaced Both Crank Shaft Seals and my 250 TrailBoss. It runs and Idles perfect. Starts right up and goes to Idle. I did it with the engine in the Frame.
I used the Clymer Repair Manual and Polaris TrailBoss Scrambler Magnum Clutch Puller tool I got off eBay ($ 58.00 Total), Had a Flywheel Puller, got 3 - 6mm x 3.5" bolts for that and used the old # 40 drill into the old Seals, screwed in a small sheet metal screw and pulled out the old ones.
I kind of took the long road around the real problem.
If you have worked the top end and it won't Idle - Change the Crank seals, Both of them.
Timmy from Connecticut
I used the Clymer Repair Manual and Polaris TrailBoss Scrambler Magnum Clutch Puller tool I got off eBay ($ 58.00 Total), Had a Flywheel Puller, got 3 - 6mm x 3.5" bolts for that and used the old # 40 drill into the old Seals, screwed in a small sheet metal screw and pulled out the old ones.
I kind of took the long road around the real problem.
If you have worked the top end and it won't Idle - Change the Crank seals, Both of them.
Timmy from Connecticut
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