Ok so what does the clutch adjusting screw do??
does it just adjust free play in the lever??
on the cover it says increase one way and decrease the other...
decrease or increase what????
i know this clutch issue has been flogged to death here but i really would like to know whats up with this, not to mention my bike still wont shift into gear unless i basically force up on the shaft extremely hard??
i cant figure it out...and i hate to have to tear into it if i don't have to..
Dan

 

The clutch adjustment increase & decrease is the manual clutch freeplay .. If you turn the adj screw all the way to increase then the manual clutch won't engage and the bike will shift very hard & rough .. If the screw is turned to decrease (past where it gets hard) the clutch won't dis-engage and the bike will just rev up and not move in any gear ..

Here is how Honda recommends adjusting the TRX350 clutch ..
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Wow, you are good.

 

I'm having the same problem with the adjuster screw on my '04 Rancher 350. I decided to try adjusting the "free play" screw but, after loosening the lock nut, the adjuster screw won't budge even with an air ratchet with a 1/4" socket with a flathead driver insert @ 100 psi of pressure. I'm thinking its a pretty bad design. Would have made more sense having a regular hex bolt and lock nut to keep in place. I'm just wondering on my symptoms if I even need to have that adjusted or not. I hope not since I can't turn it and know it wouldn't be cheap for the dealer to fix it.
My symptom is when I switch between gears weather upshifting or downshifting with the electric pushbuttons, there is about a 2-3 second hesitation where it basically is in no gear, then jumps hard into the next gear. The second that I push the button(up or down), it sounds like it activated the shift control motor but, still takes those 2-3 seconds to change gears. when I tryed using the manual shift tool to troubleshoot the issue, I noticed that changing through all the gears worked pretty smoothly.
So, from what I have described, does this sound like I have bad clutches, I need to clean the shift control motor, find a way to adjust that siezed up free play bolt, or something else I have not mentioned?
Can someone please help me with this issue for I'm now leary to tackel anything since the first thing I tryed from looking at the forums as this trany problem is obviously a common issue?

 

When loosing the lock nut you need to hold the adjustment screw or that will turn with it and tighten the adjustment screw. but in other case i have had to pull the front case to free it agian.

 

Brandon, I can see where that would be of an issue. On the other hand, even though I should have held the adjuster screw stable while loosening the lock nut, I noticed that the adjuster screw still never moved. On another thread on here I saw that another person had the same problem and had to take off the cover and replace the "seized up" scew. The overall design is bad since the O-ring should be on the outside of the cover to hold lubrication on all the threads rather than the inside to let the threads instead be exposed to the elements.

 

Like was said above this adjustment is only for the shifting clutch not pulling clutch..Also if the adjustment is correct. you will put foot under shifter and lift up on shift lever [while engine is running] and clutch should disenage while foot is still lifting up lever.Think of it as an motorcycle clutch lever when you release shift lever atv will go.. you don,t want atv to move while holding shift lever up...

 

this is for Papa Hogg Scoot, if that info is correct, then I have absolutely no issues with the adjustment screw other than the fact that it's stuck. Because when I use the manual tool to shift it manually, when I pull back(or push down, depending on down or up shifting), the atv doesn't stay in gear(clutch is deactivated), so my whole problem then must be with the shift control motor or something else that I'm not aware of yet. There is a sensor (angle sensor) right below that shift control motor. Could that be the issue at all?

 

OK, last night I finally got a chance to take off the shift control motor and clean it. By the looks of the contacts on the armature, it looks like it needed it. A word of advise to anyone doing that project, make sure you don't put the bolts back in and turn them too tight. One of the bots busted off and now I'm going to have to fix that at a later date. I was hoping that was going to be the issue but, it still is sluggish to shift after I hit the button. Unless I'm way off is, I'm now guessing the hydrolic piston is just starting to get tired. If anyone can help me with ideas beyond this, it would be greatly helpful.

 

I don't think angle sensors are all that expensive. Maybe you should just replace it? I know they go bad.