Ok, so I went ice fishing this weekend and had a brake caliper stick, bend the disc brake, snap off two of the bolts that hold the brake disc on and bent the heck out of the caliper bracket. Well, I had a tourney to fish this weekend, so I took it home and removed the hub assembly to take off the bent disc that was hanging up on the strut. I put it all back together, refilled with fluid, and went fishing. It was then that I noticed that the 4wd is not working on the front left tire now. It has worked great all winter until now that I tore it apart. I have never tore them apart before and wondering if there was something that I may have done wrong when putting back together. I have another tournament this weekend and need to get this back running with 4wd because of all the snow we are to be getting this week. Thanks for any advice guys. I am also looking for a new caliper bracket and disc brake. Anyone have some used ones?

 

My first guess as to why 4x4 doesn't work is the castle nut is too tight. Should be only about 17 ft/lbs.

 

Well, I got out the torque wrench and tightened the nut to 17 ft lbs. However, there was some slop in the hub at the tension, and the 4wd was not engaging. I tightened it to 30 and the 4wd would engage when lifted up in the air and it would turn off when the switch was hit. However, I took it out of the garage and it would not work out in the yard. No 4wd in that tire. Do I actually leave it at 17 ft. lbs even if the bearings have some slop in them?

 

Max is 12 ft/lb for the hub nut. (144in/lb)

Hub rebuild link.

http://www.atvtime.com/phpBB2/viewto...003&pc_t=12521

 

Sounds like you have the armature plate in backwards, the plate has tabs on it which fit into the slots on the hilliard clutch.

 

Well, I didnt get out into the garage last night to pull it apart again. I am going to get some Kerosene for the torpedo heater tonight and go pull it apart again. I am going to put the castle nut to 12 ft lbs, but the hub wobbles a little. Is this how it is supposed to be? I guess I don't really understand how that little clutch works in there with the armature plate, etc. I have worked on 4wd vehicles, pulled hubs apart on them, etc, but I am kind of foggy on this atv 4wd. I realize that there is a magnetic charge that engages it, but how does that little clutch work? I have searched for an explanation, but none so far. I believe I put the armature plate with the tabs facing the clutch, but I will double check to make sure. The wierd thing was, I could get it to engage when up on the stand in the garage, but as soon as I put a load on it out in the yard, it did not work. Got to get this fixed by Saturday, NAIFC ice fishing competition in my hometown this weekend.

 

One way to look at the Hillary clutch is it is like an over-running clutch. When the front tires start to go faster than the rear,(rear getting the traction) the clutch over-runs or freewheels even though the armature plate is magged. The little rollers cause this to happen.

 

Well guys, I appreciate all your help, but I still havent narrowed this one down. Had it apart again last night and still no 4wd. The nut on this quad has no pin, and it tightens to 12 ft lbs before it even hits the spacer that holds the bearings in. This has me confused, because I know there can't be any slop in there or the bearings will be toast. I tightened the castle nut, just until it was hitting the spacer that holds the bearings, I mean it was barely tightened against it. The 4wd would engage at times on the stand, I would loosen the castle nut, and then no 4wd. I would then tighten the nut a little more and the 4wd would engage, but not kick out of 4wd. I kind of found a happy medium, where it would engage, then disengage in reverse. I took it out in the snow, and no 4wd. Wierd that it will engage/disengage with no load, but as soon as there is a load, no 4wd. Another thing I forgot to mention, I don't have the disc brake on it right now, I am waiting for a new one. Will that have an effect on it? This 4wd system worked flawlessly all hunting season and all winter so far, just quit working when I tore it apart last weekend and put it back together. It has be baffled. ALso, is there a spacer that is to go in between the armature plate and the clutch? something that pushes against the inner bearings from the clutch? Also, where is the key supposed to be? I am just trying to narrow things down a little better. I just feel I have something slightly out of place. Thanks.

 

No spacer between the armature plate and clutch,the older ones did not have a cotter key, when you have awd on the jack can you stop it from turning with your foot?If it works some times and then not work Ive seen the shifter switch go bad, if you will find a spade on the terminal board under the front cover thats hot when the key is on then hook the red-grey wires that go to the hubs to it the awd switch will turn awd on and off and by-pass the shifter switch.

 

Maybe this is you problem from the rebuild link I sent you.

New amature plate is only $7 from these guys. http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...1994&fveh=5386

May manual says to tighten the castle nut beyond 12 ft then spin wheel a few times then back it off nut and re tighten it to 12ft. Maybe your spindle or nut thread is abit screwed because I could turn the nut tight up to bearing just with my hand.

Here is a parts break down of your ATV to help explain things.