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Adding more low end to 330 Trail Boss

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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 08:25 AM
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Default Adding more low end to 330 Trail Boss

Hello all

I have a 2003 330 trailboss and the area where I ride is all very tight, rocky technical trails. I find the trail boss with stock clutch components and gearing a bit non responsive for this type of terrain. It seems like the belt is always partially engaged as I always on and off the throttle climbing rocks, roots and dodging trees. The machine is great once you hit a straightaway but those are few and far between around my place. Is there anything that can be done to improve the low end?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 08:32 AM
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Get it clutched for the type of riding you like. Lots of differnt springs and weight for that clutch. To bad the ATV does not have a low range. These guys will tell you what kit you need.Ritter Cycle Racing (618) 644-3211
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 08:52 AM
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Definitely would recommend calling Rick. Got the stage 1 kit for my 325 boss and was happy with the results.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 06:09 PM
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Don't let the hp numbers fool you. Its all in how you get it to the ground. Clutching clutching clutching!
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EPI pink primary spring aaen blue secondary set 2-2 if you want to change weights go to 10WH
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ftwflh
EPI pink primary spring aaen blue secondary set 2-2 if you want to change weights go to 10WH
Great........thanks for the info. Will I need a special tool to change the springs? Also, did you do any carb work. Mine seems really lean. It takes forever for it to warm up and low speed response to throttle is terrible until its really warmed up. Carb is clean as I took it all apart and cleaned it but unfortunately I left the stock jetting. I didn't touch the fuel screw as the plug was still covering it. Was considering a dyno jet kit. I've got a Honda Recon with a DJ kit in the carb and it made a world of difference.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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Don't let the hp numbers fool you. Its all in how you get it to the ground. Clutching clutching clutching!
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You may need an extra set of hands to preload the secondary and a good set of snap ring pliers,Dont even have to take the primary off.
on the carb just open the air up about a half turn
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 06:31 AM
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Hey thanks for the info!
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 07:13 AM
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As far as taking a while to warm up, the Trail Boss is notorious for that. You just kinda get used to it.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 09:15 AM
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I've read that quite a few times but its get pretty anoying in the winter. Is there an easy way to get the carb off. Last time I had it out to clean a clogged pilot jet I had a lot of stuff removed, front cab , side panels, seat obviously, airbox. I got a Dynojet kit for a decent price that I intend to install this weekend.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Sandman2.0
I've read that quite a few times but its get pretty anoying in the winter. Is there an easy way to get the carb off. Last time I had it out to clean a clogged pilot jet I had a lot of stuff removed, front cab , side panels, seat obviously, airbox. I got a Dynojet kit for a decent price that I intend to install this weekend.

Don't I wish. When I put the stage 1 kit in, I had to rejet. Then I found that the 330 uses a little bigger carb than the 325 did, and I found one for 25 bucks. That was an adventure. Sold the quad to my brother in law, and his sons inherited it. One thought he could "fix" the carb. Now it's back at my house again, and I'm going back to the original carb so they won't mess with it anymore.

I think I could remove and rebuild the carb in my sleep now.


You should be able to leave the front cab on. Other than that...
 
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