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Carb swap questions

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Old Feb 7, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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Hello again guys. I'm having problems with the carb on my 1995 300 4x4. I tried cleaning it out, then tried rebuilding it. The machine is still running like crap. It's running pig rich, blowing a ton of smoke and it won't rev up high. I think the carb might just be worn out. I made sure all of the new jets were the same # and all of the other parts matched. I'm at the point where I just want to put a new carb in it and be done with it. I'm considering a 30 tmx, or a 30 koso. I'm trying to keep the swap as inexpensive and easy as possible. The oil pump is already blocked off, so that should make it a bit easier. Any suggestions? As always, your help is appreciated.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 07:03 AM
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Are you sure its the carb givin you problems? have you checked the compression? are the crank seals bad?,
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 09:05 AM
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I had a 300 in my shop a couple months ago with similar issues. It had a broken piston skirt. Do what kerrbirds said and check the skirt as well.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 11:07 AM
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The machine has a fairly fresh top end. The top end was just broken in when I bought it. I was skeptical about it, until the guy showed my receipts for, and pictures of the rebuild. Just to be safe, I did check the compression. It has 125 psi. I did not check the crank seals though. I think I might get some new ones and put them in. Even if they are not bad, at least I can rule them out. Can I leave the motor in the machine to replace crank seals?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SlowAndHighTBI
The machine has a fairly fresh top end. The top end was just broken in when I bought it. I was skeptical about it, until the guy showed my receipts for, and pictures of the rebuild. Just to be safe, I did check the compression. It has 125 psi. I did not check the crank seals though. I think I might get some new ones and put them in. Even if they are not bad, at least I can rule them out. Can I leave the motor in the machine to replace crank seals?
Yep
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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Ok, I started tearing the quad apart already. I had to quit early because it's FREEZING outside, and I don't have any heat in my garage. I took the pull start assembly off to expose the flywheel, and removed the clutch cover and front clutch. Does anyone know what size bolts are needed to thread into the flywheel to remove it?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SlowAndHighTBI
Ok, I started tearing the quad apart already. I had to quit early because it's FREEZING outside, and I don't have any heat in my garage. I took the pull start assembly off to expose the flywheel, and removed the clutch cover and front clutch. Does anyone know what size bolts are needed to thread into the flywheel to remove it?
Its either a 6mm x 1.0 or an 8mm x 1.25
Over the years they used both sizes. The 8mm is more popular it seems. Try one of the recoil bolts, if they thread in, it's the 6. If it just pushes in, its the 8mm. Saying that tho, those bolts are not long enough. The ones I use are 6mm x 1.0 x 55, 8mm x 1.25 x 60.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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Awesome. Thanks a lot 94Harley. You have been very helpful. I'm going to take your advise on checking the piston also. Do you think I can get a good look at the piston skirts through the intake with a mirror?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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You won't even need a mirror. Just pull the carb and look through the boot with a light. Roll the motor over with the recoil or by hand(since your recoil is off) and see what it looks like.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 04:02 PM
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I checked the piston out today, and it doesn't appear to be broken. I'm just waiting on my buddy to bring his 3 jaw puller over. I can't believe i haven't bought one of those yet, lol. I hear that the flywheels on these bikes can be very very stubborn. Is it ok to use an impact gun on the 3 jaw puller when removing the flywheel?
 
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