I` m trying to get out the roll pin to replace the u-joint. Need to grind down a punch to the right diameter for my air hammer. Once I get this pin out (if ever) what are the chances that the yoke will come off? This ATV has been outside all the time and is very rusty (should not have bought it) but I thought I could fix it up. Didn`t know that rust was such an enemy to these things. I figure my luck this yoke won`t want to come off?

 

Should slide off,but if it doesn't soak the splines in PB Blaster for awhile. Best stuff I've found on rusted nuts and bolts. If you have to,just zap the yoke with a blunt bit on your air hammer if you have to.

 

Glad to hear PB Blaster is good, that`s what I`ve been soaking the roll pin with. I had a good experience with ZEP 45 once and have been using that too.

 

The new replacement axles have a CV joints on both ends now I think. U joints are just not as tuff or maintenance free.

 

Got `er done. Been working in spurts due to an eye disease and the cold. I wouldn`t even think of trying to do this job without an air hammer. I just removed the front grill and bottom radiator bracket to get access to the pin. Went easy after I ground a tapered punch to size and gave it to it with the air hammer. Got 2 punch sets at harbor freight to get the job done. Now to get the b.bj. out and replace the u-joint. Left the hub and disc all together so I don`t have to do that part. Got the b.j. from ebay and will get u-joints from napa. Thanks "OPT" for the input. Almost forgot to mention I used a long straight punch on the air hammer to get the yoke off.

 

u-joints are stronger than CV joints. A buddy of mine was an engineer at Case and he edjucated me on that. I`m not afraid of greasing my ATV. Maintenance is cheaper than replacing parts.