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Sportsman 500 clutch on my 700

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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 09:00 PM
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Default Sportsman 500 clutch on my 700

I noticed that my ebs seemed to have some issues and that my belt slipped when pulling sleds in snow. Anyway I decided to pull my clutch cover off and see what I have. To my surprise after searching part numbers, it seems I have a primary, secondary, and belt from a Sportsman 500... Late 90's to early 2000's.
Secondary-1322190
Primary- 1321706 blue spring
Belt- 3211069
All are ebs stuff, just wrong year/model
My question is... what should I do? The belt has a section worn in. I have lined up to a king quad 700 in snow and held my own against it with lesser tires, so performance seems reasonable for it. The primary definitely only spins one way, and the secondary seems to, or so does the plate against the transmission.

Is this set up going to work? Do I need to find all the original parts for a 700 and change to them (that's expensive).
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Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 09:36 PM
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Almost seems as if this isn't a big issues... perhaps I should just replace the belt and go?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 07:47 AM
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Up to you if you want to change back to the 700 clutches.700 uses the #3211091 belt but wouldn't use it on the setup you have.You can try a replacement 500 belt
#3211069 and go from there. Possible the damage was from over heating the clutches and belt by heavy sled loads. Another is to just swap back to the orignial clutch system for you model 700 and belt that can get expensive.Sounds like po had problems and swapped the systems out.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Up to you if you want to change back to the 700 clutches.700 uses the #3211091 belt but wouldn't use it on the setup you have.You can try a replacement 500 belt
#3211069 and go from there. Possible the damage was from over heating the clutches and belt by heavy sled loads. Another is to just swap back to the orignial clutch system for you model 700 and belt that can get expensive.Sounds like po had problems and swapped the systems out.
Thanks opt. I ordered a new belt 3211069 belt. I'm thinking this setup will be okay. I'm not certain how the inspect the clutch and all that. I did check and it has weights for a 700 and im quite certain the spring is from a 700 too. We'll see how it works. Just hoping my old belt was pretty bad before.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 04:16 PM
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Check the alignment of the clutches. If it's off it can cause more wear on the belt.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jumbofrank
Check the alignment of the clutches. If it's off it can cause more wear on the belt.
What's the best way to do this? It doesn't creep in gear. When I put the motor in I took a 1/2" drive breaker bar and laid it in the secondary, I put it down in so that it would be positioned just like the belt. Then i ran it over to the primary and centered it.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 04:59 AM
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Just make sure the belt is running center of the one way bearing and motor mounts are okay before you put the clutch cover back on. Center to center of the front and rear clutch mounting bolts should be 10" If it wasn't creeping or hard shifting sounds like it's okay.Alignment is just adding or removing washers from behind the rear clutch to make the belt run straight on both clutches.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2015 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Just make sure the belt is running center of the one way bearing and motor mounts are okay before you put the clutch cover back on. Center to center of the front and rear clutch mounting bolts should be 10" If it wasn't creeping or hard shifting sounds like it's okay.Alignment is just adding or removing washers from behind the rear clutch to make the belt run straight on both clutches.
It seems perhaps a tad under 10". I think I have an idling issue. If I got to park or neutral and rev and release, it will stay higher than normal idle speed. Now if I shift into low, high, or reverse, it will idle down and it will stay idled down if i shift back into neutral or park until i rev again. I cleaned the throttle body and made sure the spring in the throttle lets the cable return. It seems to. Even when it is idled down, the primary spins the secondary. Still no EBS. To top things off, I can't tell what it's idling at because the tach doesn't work.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 10:19 AM
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Cable just operates the throttle body butterfly valve at the mouth of the carb. Main action is through the carb slide/vacuum diaphragm on idle,acceleration. Check that the slide lifts and falls quickly. Lift it up from the back side of the carb. If it's operating okay,spray some contact cleaner around the carb boot while at an idle.If idle changes could have a small air leak that's causing the problems. Plus could be time just to install a carb kit.Plus make sure you have 1/8" slack at the thumb lever.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Cable just operates the throttle body butterfly valve at the mouth of the carb. Main action is through the carb slide/vacuum diaphragm on idle,acceleration. Check that the slide lifts and falls quickly. Lift it up from the back side of the carb. If it's operating okay,spray some contact cleaner around the carb boot while at an idle.If idle changes could have a small air leak that's causing the problems. Plus could be time just to install a carb kit.Plus make sure you have 1/8" slack at the thumb lever.
It's a fuel injected bike, but im sure an air leak would act the same
 
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