Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech. An area where experts in their field will answer non-general questions about your Polaris ATV.
"old polaris tech" and other experts will answer your questions as they have time.
ASK ALL GENERAL QUESTIONS OR BASIC QUESTIONS IN THE POLARIS FORUM.
Basic or General questions posted in a expert section will be moved!

Polaris Trailblazer 250 No Start

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 5, 2015 | 08:38 PM
  #1  
brapbrapguy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Default Polaris Trailblazer 250 No Start

So my buddy and I was going fourwheeler ridding I started up the trailblazer started on first turn everything was good drove it on the trailer got to the park and it would not start and I have not been able to start it sense I have rebuilt the top end stock piston size put a complete new ignition system from stator, recitifier, cdi, coil, plug all that and still nothing, now I was an idiot and scratched the piston up a bit only one scratch but goes half way down piston. but it is getting good compression the crank seals are good cuz it is pulling gas in and I checked for leaks or play no play or any leaks but the only way itll back fire or spark is if I hold my hand on the carburetor and get it to suck pressure and itll back fire so im at a loss did I miss a step rebuilding top end which was only 90 psi which is why I thought it wouldn't start but yeah idk now. Help please
 
Reply
Old Nov 6, 2015 | 06:56 AM
  #2  
old polaris tech's Avatar
Polaris ATV Expert
Retired and loving it!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 24,350
Likes: 44
From: North Texas
Default

First off installing a stock piston and rings in a worn cylinder almost never works. 90 psi is too low to even run right if you can even get it cranked.. Have the cylinder measured for an over size piston. If cylinder isn't worn too bad, a first over .020 Wiseco piston kit is the best you can install in the 250. Plus you can't tell whether crank seals are good by just looking at them. They're cheap and best to replace at least the main one that fails,the one behind the drive clutch when you do the top end.
 
Reply
Old Nov 6, 2015 | 01:33 PM
  #3  
brapbrapguy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Weekend Warrior
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Default

ahhhh ok cool I didnt think that the cylinder looked to bad live and learn thats what I love about this. I know ebay has a shop that will do it for 150 so ill look into that. ill change the one behind the clutch but if the other crank seals are bad is there any way to remove the engine without pulling transmission off cuz I know ill have to split the case to change those other two seals and I might go ahead and do it as well as crank rod if the engine can be removed without removing the transmission.
 
Reply
Old Nov 6, 2015 | 04:06 PM
  #4  
old polaris tech's Avatar
Polaris ATV Expert
Retired and loving it!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 24,350
Likes: 44
From: North Texas
Default

You have to pull the flywheel and stator to replace the other seal. Engine doesn't have to be removed,but is harder to get to. The main culprit is the seal behind the drive clutch and easier to get to. The transmission is separate from the engine if you decide you want to pull the complete engine and rebuild it..
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ultangler
Chinese Quads
16
Nov 30, 2024 01:35 AM
ltrmc02
Polaris
11
Aug 22, 2021 02:34 PM
neo27ny
Polaris
61
May 14, 2018 12:19 PM
Nosniborpapa
Kawasaki
4
Sep 19, 2015 07:07 PM
firsttimerider
Technical and How-To Articles
2
Aug 27, 2015 02:09 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:16 AM.