How do I take it off and how do I know if it's the centrical clutch causing problem or the one with the clutch pack? It slips when I give it throttle in first then it will grab but under full throttle in high gears it will slip hard. Or going up a hill in 2nd it will slip.

 

Not an authority on this model,but similar to the clutches on the Polaris Expedition. An impact gun and socket should free the centrifugal clutch. Most things that people look at are the thickness of the material on the shoes,clutch drums for scoring or heat related issues. On the other clutch check the friction plates for glazing and metal plates for any warping or bluish color from heat also. Measuring thickness of friction plates doesn't always work as plates can become oil saturated and glazed and can slip, even if plates are within tolerances.I know it can run into some $,but if mine and I've gone that far,I'd replace the shoes and the friction plates. Most steel plates unless warped or damaged can still be reused.Clutch Friction Plates Fits Kawasaki KLF300 Bayou 300 1986 1996 | eBay Clutch Centrifugal Carrier Fits Kawasaki KLF300C Bayou 300 4x4 1989 2005 | eBay

 

So I went to the hardware store and bought a impact 205$ cheapest one I could find. So I got the nut off, I can't seem to pull off the clutch. It won't budge. I tried pulling on it. Put a hammer and pryed it. I didn't pull to hard just incase I damage something. Is there a C clip or something holding it back? It seems like the drum has to come off with the centrical clutch

 

 

So I got the clutch out by smashing the drum back and forth by hand and she just popped out. Lucky I think. But the drum is still on. Will I be able to take the clutch pack one out or do I gotta get the drum out?
I posted pictures just waiting for the moderators to look at it i guess

 

Rather than beating on things,how about a manual that can help you on this and on many other repairs and service.https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail....pair-1986-2006

 

Shoes for sure,drum more than likely if it can't be cleaned up.. Plus I'd still check/replace the friction plates as cheap as they are($29). Nothing worse than having to pull the cover back off and go back into something that you just worked on.

 

Everything's taken off now. The secondary clutch disks look alright I guess, as much as I don't want to spend the money changing them I'm going to. The drum looks worse in the picture. There's groves but I was looking at new ones and they come with groves that look pretty similar. Thanks for directing me to that booklet. It's really gonna help on the torque specs. Here's some more pictures on what the secondary clutch pack looks like for anyone who's looking to do this. I couldn't find a walk through anywhere so I hope this helps someone.