I picked up a 2003 Foreman S with 2,500 miles on it and in decent shape overall. It needs at least one front wheel bearing and CV boot, rear brakes are non functional and dragging to the point it almost won't roll, and no power to the rear wheels.

The no rear wheel drive is a bummer, but after searching the threads it seems to be a very common issue with these things. The left rear bearing and seal are trashed. I assume I will need at least a new axle, but from what I've read, the ring gear is likely ok. When I look through the oil fill hole and turn the tires the ring gear doesn't move, when I put it in gear the ring gear turns and looks fine.

My question is, why are these axles, bearings, seals such junk that so many fail? I had an 87' 350 that would not die (aside from the electric fuel pump ) Anyone have any pointers before I bail off up to my ears in this thing?

 

Very rare for a 2000 to 2006 rear axle to fail, I have only had a couple do it, and must maintain about 30 of them. If you want a real dog for axle failures the previous model 300 and the model after the 350, the 420 are far, far worse for axle failures. I think the ratio will be reversed on the 420s, I maintain about 30 and about 2 haven't had axle failures.

Anyway, no problems removing the rear axle. Take drum and backplate off, remove hub from LH side and drift axle out through RH side. "Tunnel" will have to come off as well. Check that the spacer washer between shaft and LH bearing is OK and inspect the splines in the crownwheel, but they are usually OK (unlike the 420).

 

Well that sounds encouraging on the axle. I'm going to order new brakes, bearings and seals for both sides while I'm in there. The brake cam is seized. I was able to get it rotated back with a little persuasion enough to roll freely now. I haven't been into it yet to see if it's salvageable or what other issues there are.

 

Take the cam out and de-rust it with emery, grease the shaft and re-fit. I use an almost pointed drift to get them out, as it is all too easy to burr the splines up if you don't hit it smack in the middle. Soak the felt washer in oil before re-fitting it.

 

I've got parts coming to fix the front wheel bearing hopefully this weekend. Then I'll move to the fun stuff on the back end.

The only thing I've found that doesn't work are the lights. Not a single head or tail lamp burns so I need to dig into that as well.

 

After halfway disassembling the bike assuming the very worst (shorted harness), I could've saved myself 3-4 hours of screwing around and tested the light switch in the handlebars.

The contacts have sunk into the plastic over the years from getting hot when in use. They no longer stick out far enough to touch the nubs on the brass tab inside the switch handle.

And as a side note for anyone who recommends spraying contact cleaner in there to "fix it", you will indeed fix it. Contact cleaner melts the plastic and turns everything to goo. So, yeah no - don't use contact cleaner on your switches. It was too far gone to repair anyway so no biggie. I have another junker switch assy I will unsolder and install in this switch assy.

Left front wheel bearings this weekend yippee!

 

Left front wheel bearings / seals done this weekend. Ball joints were good and tight. One was very tight but soaked for a while and freed it up, then took a needle gun through the boot and repackaged it. Also got the rear brakes tore, beat, pried apart cleaned up and freely moving. Just left it all kinda loose since I'm starting on the rear axle, bearings, seal replacement next. Going to get my parts list figured out tomorrow and hopefully have everything ready to go by next weekend.

 

Got a whole box load of new seals, bearings an axle shaft yesterday. Fun time starts Friday AM I hope! A little nervous about what the ring gear and bearings are going to look like, but hope to not have to crack open the diff.

 

New rear axle and bearings did the trick. Everything working great again - thanks for the help diagnosing.