Raptor Oil Change How-to with pictures added to site
#3
I'm sure some people will appreciate it. Maybe there are people out there that have traditionally taken their ATV to the dealer for service that would like to learn how to do it themselves and save some money. Plus, the manual doesn't do a very good job outlining all the little details.
#4
I'm thinking I'm the only one that noticed this... but... The raptor manual calls for 5w30 or 10w30 oil, depending on the outside temperature. This oil change how-to has a picture of this person dumping 10w40 in his bike. Maybe this how-to is slightly inaccurate?
2001 Yamaha Raptor (stock)
1988 Yamaha Warrior (too many mods to list)
2001 Yamaha Raptor (stock)
1988 Yamaha Warrior (too many mods to list)
#5
Hey this man is helping the people who are'nt so mechanically incline, I'd give him a lot of respect for that. Theirs a lot of people who will bring their machine to the dealer for that, but if they can get a know how to do it them selves they'll be less apt to go to the dealer.
GOOD JOB RAPTORZONE!!!
2000 SCRAMBLER 400 2X4
SCRAMDADDY400
GOOD JOB RAPTORZONE!!!
2000 SCRAMBLER 400 2X4
SCRAMDADDY400
#6
IceMan11,
There are also two others listed in the manual besides 5W30 and 10W30. I know for a fact that the other one is 20W40 used for high temperature riding areas, which I use and was purchased from the Yamaha dealer. I believe the other may be 10W40, I don't have the manual in front of me. The key to note is to use a brand that has no additives for anti friction and the correct API rating. I stuck with the factory stuff because I found it hard finding a 20W40 without the additives at the auto store. For how often you change it, and the quantity you need I would rather spend the extra $3.
There are also two others listed in the manual besides 5W30 and 10W30. I know for a fact that the other one is 20W40 used for high temperature riding areas, which I use and was purchased from the Yamaha dealer. I believe the other may be 10W40, I don't have the manual in front of me. The key to note is to use a brand that has no additives for anti friction and the correct API rating. I stuck with the factory stuff because I found it hard finding a 20W40 without the additives at the auto store. For how often you change it, and the quantity you need I would rather spend the extra $3.
#7
Thanks for all the info RaptorZone. I check out your site quite often. It's in my "Favorites" list. Don't listen to these geeks who dog you for doing something they can't. They probably don't even have a quad. Maybe you should put a few pics on your site for these guys that shows them how to lube their bike chain. ha ha. Thanks for the FREE info.
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