As the title states, its idling very high to the point where it cannot shift into gear, and if it does, it pops out of gear when i apply breaks. Had an issue where it wasnt starting at all so i replaced all jets and pilot screws, needle, etc. Still wouldnt start. When i reassembled it i noticed a foot long hose connected to the top that wasnt connected to anything. I took it off and noticed it was clogged with congealed fuel. I blew out the tube. Before putting it back on, for curiosities sake, i attempted to start the Quad. Success, started right up, however it was idling very high. I placed the tube back on, didnt help. Turned back the idle adjust until it came out, still too high. Reset the pilot screw all the way down, then out to 2.5 turns, very little difference. Im at a loss for how to get this idle down. My only thought is perhaps the pilot jet i replaced, i replaced it with a pilot jet with a larger hole and didnt notice? This would theoretically let in more fuel, which would then cause it to idle higher if im not mistaken?

If this is the case, does anyone know the proper size pilot jet?

 

So, ive checked all the jets, they are proper factory size. I took the cover off where the throttle connects to the carb and it appears the cable is pulling on the throttle within the carb so that only the final 1/4 threads of the idle adjust actually affect the throttle position.

However, i was able to finagle it into gear despite its protests, and once its in gear, the idle fixes itself and i can shift fine. So im really confused how that works.

I can continue to force it into gear to fix it, but i feel all that will do is destroy the transmission and clutch down the road, so id rather find the problem and fix it, rather than creating a bigger problem.

 

The throttle cable should have a bit of slack once the throttle lever in the carb, touches the idle speed adjuster. You may have a manifold air leak, or the choke not working properly, if the engine is revving too fast with butterfly fully closed, as it must be getting fuel and air from somewhere else. Eigers can get rust on the handlebars, behind the choke lever, making the lever stick, and I once had one where the outer cable had stretched due to rust, causing the choke to be slightly on all the time.

 

If the choke affects the throttle cable that very well may be the problem. The butterfly cannot close all the way because the throttle cable is too short. In order for the idle adjust to even touch the butterfly adjuster...thing (I am by no means a mechanic, so forgive that i dont know what a lot of this is called) the idle adjust has to be in at least halfway to 3/4s of all the way in. Though that doesnt explain why once i get it out of park it fixes itself, and when i put it back into park, the idle revs again.

 

Once in gear it is trying to move, so revs drop. There will be an adjuster on the outer throttle cable, sometimes mid cable, but usually where it screws into the boxes on both handlebars and carb. Adjust until you get at least 3/8" slack on the handlebar throttle lever before it starts to pull the cable. Then adjust the slow speed screw to get the slowest idle it will run without stalling, when hot.

 

I tried adjusring those, they dont adjust out any more, they will only go tighter unfirtunately. Ill check mid cable to see if im missing something

 

So. I was able to finally get the break bleed valves unseized and was able to run fresh breakfluid into the systems (front and back). The breaks now work well. I was also able to fine tune the idle while it was in gear so it stops trying to push itself forwards.

I started checking all fluid levels and found it was out of coolant, so i added coolant.

Somehow, today after initially having the idle issue when i first started it, after driving around for about 5 minutes when i set it back in park, the idle stayed where it was instead of ramping. Which leads me to wonder, is there some sort of radiator fan that may have been trying hard to keep the engine cool while in park and could the high idle have been to power said fan? But now that there is coolant, it doesnt have that issue? Im not so sure because it was idling high even when first started, so im wondering if now that the other things are doing what they are meant to, once it warms up if the idle is dieing back down since its not needed.

Im unsure exactly why its working now, but will check again tomorrow to see if its a fluke, or if servicing other areas somehow rectified the issue. It also shifts much smoother now.

 

Sounds like the throttle butterfly may have been sticking and feed itself. However to lengthen the inner cable, you adjust the outer one in, you wrote " they dont adjust out any more" so have ben going the wrong way.

 

i may have described it wrong, for the one on the handle bar i was screwing it in, as this let more of the line out, i had it disassembled so i could see what effect i was having on the throttle.

I do not believe the butterfly was stuck, as i was testing it while i had the carb out and it was working fine mechanically (though this was while it was only attached to throttle and choke, so it may have been a different story while fully installed and vehicle running.

Either which way, i started it today, i had high idle for about 20 seconds, then calmed back down, so i could definitely believe that something was stuck and it is finally starting to loosen through use. The shifting problem is completely gone now. I gave the breaks a better test today, got the quad up to 30 mph and they stopped the quad perfectly, so if it keeps on like this, id say i accidentally fumbled my way through the repairs successfully xD.

 

heres a photo, its definitely seen better days haha. now that its running right, i have to attach the 2 side panels back on.

I have to be a bit gentle with it as it has a few cracks in the frame, so if i over work it, itll likely be a bad time.