anyone know the right wires to disconnect for the over-ride button? on a 95'scrambler 4x4

 

I TRIED THIS ON MY SPORTSMAN THE ONLY PROBLEM WAS THAT THE REVESE LIGHT STAYED ON ALL THE TIME. I AM GOING TO TRY WIRING IN A SWITCH SO I CAN FLICK IT ON AND OFF INSTEAD OF HOLDING THE BUTTON. WHEN I GET TO THIS I WILL TRY AND LET YOU KNOW HOW IT WORKED OUT.

 

OK, these techniques to override the reverse rev limiter (yellow) button have been tried successfully on ’99 model Polaris machines without a circuit board. The headlight wiring modification will work on any Polaris with the three light setup.

From William Bashlor we have this method of bypassing the switch. Find the purple wire and the gray w/white stripe wire that comes from the override switch. Cut these two wires and connect them together so the switch is eliminated from the circuit. That’s it. This simple method, will however, leave the reverse indicator light lit up continually in both forward and reverse gears.

The method Jack Schulz employs is a little more complicated but allows the indicator lights to work as they were originally intended. Disconnect or cut the gray/orange wire coming from the speedo and you eliminate the reverse rev limiter. Find the purple wire and the gray w/white stripe wire coming from the switch (yellow button). Instead of cutting them, patch a 12v 20amp (minimum) diode between them with the power able to flow in the direction of the gray/white wire. This allows the reverse circuit to power the AWD while in reverse and does not allow the AWD circuit to power the reverse indicator light when not in reverse. This method leaves the yellow button hooked up so it has the advantage of allowing you to use it as it was originally intended in the unlikely event that the diode would burn out.

The method I use is a combination of these two, for two reasons. First, I want my reverse indicator light to function properly because that’s where I’ve connected the hot lead for my auxiliary back-up light. That way when I shift into reverse both the reverse indicator light and the back-up lights come on. Second, I wanted to isolate the yellow button from everything else so I could use it for a horn button. So I cut the gray/orange wire coming from the speedo to disable the rev limiter. Then I cut the purple wire and the gray w/white stripe wire coming from the switch (yellow button) to isolate it. Between the purple and the gray w/white stripe wires I installed the diode, with power able to travel in the direction of the gray/white wire. That completes the reverse rev limiter override, and now that it’s isolated, the yellow button can act as a momentary “on” switch for whatever you want to hook up to it. To hook up a horn simply patch a wire from a switched power source (like the cig lighter) to one of the cut yellow button wires (install an inline fuse if you wish). Then run a wire from the other cut yellow button wire to the positive terminal on the horn, and another wire from the negative terminal on the horn to a ground. Beep Beep!

I’d like to add a note here about the mechanical aspects of all this “cutting” and “patching”. As tempting as the ease of using a “Scotch Lock” type patching connector is, I personally would not trust anything like that in the harsh environment our machines often endure. The most reliable electrical connection you can make is with solder. To patch another wire into a wire without cutting it, the best method I’ve found is to cut enough of the wire fasteners and/or tubing necessary to get some slack in the wire you want to work on. Then grab it with a small mechanic’s hook and pull it as far away as you can from everything around it. Then I take a small butane torch (mine’s a little bigger than a cigarette lighter) and burn away the insulation at the point I’m holding the wire with the hook. Only about ¼” of the wire needs to be exposed. Tin the exposed portion of the wire with some solder, then tin the end of the wire you want to patch into it. Now just touch them and the tip of the soldering iron together and you have a solid, reliable electrical connection. I reinsulate the finished connection with liquid Plasti-Dip applied with a Q-Tip. This seems to go on thicker and set up faster than the liquid electrical tape, which is about the same thing. After the coating sets up resecure the wiring as possible. I’ll only mention the obvious danger of using fire around things that can melt or explode. Be careful there’s nothing you don’t want damaged in the path of your flame.

 

FAMO,
THANK YOU VERY MUCH, I FIGURED IT WOULD TAKE SOME ROUTING, AND A FEW DIODES TO KEEP THE REVERSE LIGHT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY, I ALSO HAVE A REVERSE LIGHT SET UP AND THAT IS WHY I NEED THIS INFO. I THANK YOU AGAIN FOR VERY DETAILED INSTUCTIONS.

 

hold everything guys, why do all that re-wiring when all you have to do is install a tie wrap above the overide button, leave it just a tad loose, now when you need 4x4 etc. when mudding just slide the tie rap over the button!!!!!