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jetting the raptor with no air box lid?

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Old Aug 16, 2001 | 08:51 PM
  #1  
derbyking's Avatar
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heres the deal.i had a full big gun exhaust and home made pro flow with two uni filters,gutted the air box lid and drilled nine 7/8 holes in it,tried to dial it in at that time with out a lid and never got it right.ended up with a 155/160 main with the lid and it ran great.pulled hard all the way to the top and never missed a beat at wot for LONG periods.just installed a 11-1 ross piston,ported/polished head,web cam.pro flow with kn and outer wears,sparks key,ive been working on getting it jetted with out the lid,started out with a 170/175-too lean,no power popped at wot and laid down,went up to a 180/185 still too lean,so i put the lid on and it ran great and just stumbled a littel on top,went up to a 190/195 run good stumbled a littel on top at wot,by wot i mead wide open for at least a 1/4 mile in 5th.put the lid on and the stumble went away on top but is rich everywhere else,real rich.they only make jets up to 200.is there something else you guys are doing to get them to run at wot with out stumbling?im at 3200 ft also,have the needle in the middle and using a 25 pilot,just want to dial in the top before i start on the rest.



 
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Old Aug 16, 2001 | 10:29 PM
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biggy's Avatar
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its hard to no butt ied say you are way way way to rich ...if you didnt bore you prolly can run the stock or slighy over stock jet's
 
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Old Aug 16, 2001 | 11:55 PM
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derbyking~

I post this same question about a week ago. My two Raptor Riding Buddies have installed the CT Pipe, Pro-Flow setup. One is running a stock pilot with the needle on the middle grove, mains are 195/200. The other bike is running a 25pilot, both needles on both bikes have been moved to many time to count and the mains are 185/190. Now both bikes seams to be running better on top end but we went to Livingston last weekend and during a long slow hill climb both bikes would start to load up and fall flat. That's what it sounded like, either that or it wasn't getting enough gas. But after a few hard revs it would clear it's self and would be fine again until a long drag on the engine. Still haven't figured it out yet but I'll tell you one thing, if it's tha case were the 195/200 or even 185/190 are right. This winter they'll have to run with their air box lid on.

Does anyone know!!!!!!
Is there a MFG making a two-into-one carb setup for the Raptor like the Banshee?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2001 | 12:08 AM
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sabray's Avatar
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I have two hevily moded machines. Altitude here is also 3200.
This works well here in Idaho.
3 turns out on the air mixture screws on both carbs.

First machine is running dynojet neddles and 140/145 mains. (tappers down quicker and is a lot smaller diameter at the end)

Second machine is running stock neddles and 160/165 mains.

You might try a set of neddles from dynojet. It will give you a larger jetting range.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2001 | 12:33 AM
  #5  
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I'm at 5000ft w/ 12 holes in lid. I was running 145-150 clip in #4 position and stock pilots, air screws are 1&5/8 out and 2&1/2 out. This was done on a Yamaha engine analyzer and is perfect engine exhuast temp. I bumped to a 150-155 w/ my new K&N filter. If all else fails pay the 50 bucks and have Yamaha put it on an analyzer. They WILL get it right.
 
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