I recently got done changing the brake pads on my Xplorer and have a perplexing question.
Maybe some background first. It is pretty common knowledge that the standard Polaris brake pads are too soft for aggressive riding (or almost any kind of mud riding) and wear out quickly. Personally, I haven't really seemed to have that problem. I racked up over 4900 miles before my first pad change. I chalked it up to my riding style (anything but aggressive) and the fact I don't mud much, and if I do, I rinse off the brake disks & calipers when I get home if I do. Either way, I decided to replace the pads with the severe duty ones, and see how much better they really are.
When I pulled off the front pads, they had the same part # as the ones I was putting in! I called to confirm I had picked up the right pads, and I had, so my question is this:
Why did my Xplorer have the severe-duty pads on it from the factory? Did they not have enough regular pads & just substitue them? Can a dealer order the machine with those pads already installed if they so desire?
Inquiring minds want to know.

Farmr

 

Hi Farmer

Sorry I cant answer your question but I have a question for you.
I see you have 4900 miles on your Xplorer. Have you had to rebuild the top end yet or is it still original. My Xplorer is the first 2 stroke Ive ever owned and Im not real sure how to tell when to rebuild it.

Also
The front pads on my 98 Xplorer only lasted 300 miles. I replaced them with the severe duty ones and after another 1200 miles they still look fine. I still have the original rear pads but they need to be replaced real soon.

Thanks
Andy G

 

So far on my Xplorer I have:
1) replaced 2 bushings in the rear pulley for $18
2) replaced the belt for $36
3) changed the spark plug twice for $9
4) replaced the front brake pads for $35
5) ordered replacements for worn outer tie-rod ends for $42 (for both)
6) changed to white clutch spring, and Uni filter (performance upgrades, not broken part replacement)
Everything else is just as it came out of the factory.
The engine has never been touched internally, nor has the carb, nor the reed box.

The mechanic at the dealership where I got it (I respect his opinion greatly) suggests replacing the piston (and any honing/boring necessary) between 700 & 800 hours, or as soon as you hear piston slap. It is kind of a 'knick, knick, knick' at idle, that rattles a little under acceleration coming from about halfway up the cylinder.
If you don't have an hour meter, he suggests these mileages (less precise but still a guideline)
If you work it hard, tow a lot, or use low range most of the time, about 5000-6000 miles
If you do mixed riding, 6500-7500
Lots of open road riding, 8000+
I have seen a 400 Xpress with 12,000 miles before the engine had been touched. To be fair, this was well cared for, and primarily a 'road runner'.
My brother has 6500 miles on his 400 Xpress, all kinds of mixed driving except for mudding, and has not opened up the engine yet.
The worst thing about 2 cycles is that they will run just as strong the day before the piston falls apart as they did when they were new, so loss of power really isn't an indicator, either.
I know I haven't been very helpful, but if you keep the air cleaner clean, and take good general care of it, I think the guidelines above should be close.

 

Farmr123,
is it possible that the incorrect part number was stamped on the stock pads?

How does the ATV stop now in comparison to the stock pads?Severe duty pads dont stop as well as stock but they certainly last longer.If these Severe Duty pads stop you noticable differantly than the stock pads,your stock pads were probably stamped with the incorrect part number?

Just a thought?

Bill

 

When Polaris puts these machines together, they could have any of the three brake pads up front. I think they just grab which ever one is the closest. I think that Polaris is supposed to always use the regular duty pads when they assemble them. Like I said though, they use what ever is there.

I'm sure you were one of the lucky ones who got the "severes" from the factory.


3) changed the spark plug twice for $9

If you've spent $9 on plugs, what kind of plugs are you using? If you don't mind me asking.

 

Muddy: What prompted me to check the # in the first place is that the pads looked identical. In my head, the new pads looked like a semi-metallic friction material, so I assumed the old ones would be just the usual organic pad compound. When they both looked the same, I checked part #s and they were the same, too. I even had it confirmed that I had the proper part # for severe duty pads. I used to wonder how come some guys put pads in every few hundred miles and mine kept going and going.
As far as stopping ability, I can't tell the new ones from the old, not enough difference to tell.
Elroy, the $9 for 2 spark plugs was the fault of someone (me) in a hurry and not asking questions. I had 2200 miles on my first plug, and it ran, but it didn't idle well, and wasn't running as clean as it should. My nephews were coming out to go 4-wheeling, so I wanted it to run right (didn't want it to die on them, or worse yet, have them make fun of me for poor maintanence). No one in town had the right plug, but I was traveling through another town that had a parts store, so I stopped, and sure enough, they carried them. Since all I had for cash was a few dead moths, I paid with plastic. When I went to sign the bill, I thought 'whoa, there' but bit the bullet because I was desperate.
The rip-off place I got the first plug at cost me over $6 (like I said rip-off).
Shortly thereafter I ordered 2 plugs from NAPA for $1.99 each, so $6+ added to $2, rounds up to $9. All I use are the NGK BR8ES plugs.
Yes, I write these things down. That way I can tell you for SURE what it cost me to run the beast.

You want to know what is strange?
Not counting fuel & oil (Maintanence items, not repairs) my Xplorer is costing me less than my Honda Fourtrax did at this point. Basically, the Honda has too small of a charging system for running a 12 volt sprayer, and ate 2 batteries already. The first one I got at Honda, for $95, and the 2nd at an auto parts store for $70. After I get the tie rod ends in, they will be pretty close to even. They have about the same miles on them, but the Honda took more hours getting there.

 

The reason I asked what plugs you are using is because I've done alot of testing on plugs. I am currently running a B8EVX which is a fine point dual platinum plug. It cost me about $8. I love the way mine runs with these racing plugs in it. I've tried about every brand and every style. For me the B8EVX is the plug to have. Never fouled(never fouled any of them anyway), easier starting and better acceleration. Seems to last alot longer too, naturaly due to the platinum.

 

I will have to write that # down
It still is the same heat range (the #8) and the same thread and pitch, right. I used to know what all the letters # numbers stood for, but am not so sure anymore. Anyway the v must mean performance instead of the s?

Correct me if I am wrong

 

Hey Farmer

Thanks for the rebuild information! It was very helpful actually.

Andy G