just put some full sly mobil one in the rear. know the front is limited slip i was planning on doing the front one tommorow.
the bottle says it works with limited slip differents. anybody running full sly in the front.

 

I've been running it for a few hundred miles on my API type front diff ( It's different entirely from limited slip diffs. ) I let the factory lube break it in for the first thousand miles, analysis of the factory lube showed a good amount of fine metal fall out in the breakin oil(Generally that'd be bad, but I expect the front diff will still last 10K miles with the amount of metal from the breakin oil coming out continuously. ) I haven't run a sample of the mobil 1 75w90 in there now, but I could do a check soon.

 

i dropped my differents at 100 miles which i know is over kill. did notice fine metal in the oil though that was normal. then i replaced the factory oil with the valalone blend at 300 miles there was still fine metal not as much . i kind of lost you little could you explain little different. there was always fine metals in my oil when i dropped there differents. big bear /kodiak etc
anybody else want to join this topic.

 

Awhh in a perfect world there'd be no metal fall out in differentials and [in outboard lower gear boxes] UNTIL they reached the end of their service life then the teeth on the gears would start flaking away. But it doesn't work that way, so one just keeps tabs on the amount of metal coming out.

Stages any one without a microscope can see go like this- 1. brown oil with no hint of metal. 2. A slight gray streaking in the oil-> particals below 10 microns. 3. A slight amount of glittering in sunlight, particals getting bigger. 4. Some relugar glitter mixed with finer fallout. 5. Full of glitter. 6 Glitter big enough to compare with Johnny Cashes clothing. 7. Better have money for a rebuild soon. 8. Is the chocolate milk supposed to have chunks in it? 9. Oil only dribbles out of the drain hole, it's blocked in by fallout. 10. Clank clank clank, Bubba-> Um I think I just lost drive in the front. ( And he didn't even see it coming. )


Added: In case you were wondering about the API type differential. It works like this. It shares a ring and pinion gear like most other diffs, but that's where the similarity ends. Splined onto the output drive shafts are what's called face cams. The cams literally have six bevels on them. There are a dozen cam folowers, these fit between the cams under pressure from a cone sring. The driving action from the ring gear puts it's force on the outside of the followers, when both front wheels are turning at the same speed, there is no activity between the face cams and followers. -> Here's where things get interesting. The arrangement of the cams and followers is such that turning a wheel faster than the other produces side/side motion of the cams( they are still locked into the ring gear BTW) In a frictionless world this would translate into open differential action. But under the side load of the cone spring this produces about 13 ft pounds static torque to turn wheels opposite. Unlike a limited slip where heating the clutchs (from spinning or wear) leads to more slipage and thus more of an open action. The API type diff does multiply torque(useful if one has a wheel in the air the 13ft pounds isn't cutting it, touch the front brakes), and not by squeezing wearable cluthes. The diff does have an issue where I'm guessing the ultimate service life of the API diff is shorter than a regular or limited diff(maybe half? still probably in the 20Kmile class on an atv), but there's no clutches to replace in the meantime.

The other cool thing, this sizable cam and follower contraption takes up a nice contained area, meaning that HighLifters detriot locker diff ( when available) will be an absolute snap to drop in.

 

still ok to use the full sly in the ft different with the limited slip. or should i buy the yamaha oil for the front .thanks