I need the neapco or napa part number... not the Polaris part number. Can anyone help??

 

You guys are worthless... lol

For future reference the Neapco part nuber that works is 1-1001. It is metric but it fits perfectly.

Greg

 

Greg,

Sorry I couldn't offer any help, but I've never had to change a u-joint. How do you decide when one needs changing? I replaced the yoke on the input shaft of the front drive, but reused the joint. My u-joints have the retaining clip to the inside, and I don't care much for this design. The clips seemed to want to lose their tension and not go on there tight.......this has me worried sometimes that it's going to tear up or something out on the trail. It hasn't yet after about 500 miles, but I still wonder.

Side note.........If the weather is decent, a small group of us might be going to funwheeler park for the weekend of Feb. 16 & 17th. What are the chances of you meeting us then? It would really help to have someone who is familiar with the area ride with us. Right now, it should be maybe 4-6 of us. Anyway, let me know. Enlighten me with any u-joint knowledge you have packed away with the different models and so forth.

Waylan

 

For the rear U-joints its carquest part #1-3600

 

I know how I could tell on my '96 SP500, it started clicking and before I could figure out what happened, I was winching my bike up a 75 yard hill 25 feet at a time. The u-joint had come completely out and spit needle bearing everywhere, before I could get the bike stopped and check it out.
One note of caution, don't ride the bike any farther than necessary if you suspect u-joint failure. It will bend the yokes. They can be straightened, but it's a hassle. Also, I can't remember the part number, you'll need to look around in the forums to find it, but the generic u-joint was $19.99 and the Polaris one was $57.00. I replaced the entire axle so I could get riding again, while a machine shop straightened the yoke and installed the new u-joint. The entire axle was $325.00. I hadn't had the bike very long and bought it from a local car dealer/friend, the joint broke on the first run and the dealer agreed just to replace the entire axle. He's way honest. I understand from the mechanics at the dealers, that u-joints seldom go bad. They surmise that the big wheel kit the guy had on the bike may have put the extra stress on the joint causing it to fail. But, who knows?

 

Greg,

Since I've lifted my bike, I've had to replace a u-joint. Actually, both on my prop shaft have some play in them now, and I've got the exact replacement part number for Neapco. Drumroll.........here goes: Neapco 1-0170

I took my old one by a driveshaft company today at lunch, and he knew exactly which one.

 

Thanks alot walexa. I have that extra axel with the metric U-joint. While it is very close, I do not think it is perfect as I mentioned earlier. I will go ahead and order the neapco u-joint and replace it just in case I ever need it.