I just picked up a coupla wheel spacers offa guy for free... I'm gonna put them on my recon just for fun. Now my question is this... how you get these things on? they both have 4 long bolts, which im guessing are the new studs. so, what do I do, take out the old studs from the hub and slide the bolts through, then bolt the wheel on? or how do these work? and If i was right, how do i get the old studs out? I tried last night but they wouldnt move.

 

The set i have works like this . You screw the long studs onto your existing studs and then put the spacer on ( they fit real tight ) then put the wheel back on . I had to use a rubber hammer to get the spacers back against the hub . Look at the studs and see if the have threads into studs , thats the side to screw onto your old ones . Good Luck

 

they dont work like that, but I did get them on. what I did was screw the nut on the old stud, and hit it with a hammer. about the 3rd hit one came out, then the rest came out about the 2nd hit. after I got those out I slide the new bolts through and then slide the spacer on. next you have to put the wheel on, this was a bitch! you have to have someone hold the bolts and the spacer snugly to the hub while you put the wheel on. I didnt have anybody so I put duct tape all over my hub, hopefully it'll ride off. then after the wheels on tighten all the nuts and your good to go... and these things are AWESOME! you can take turns wide open and not roll. and going through the mud (even with 18" holeshots on my recon) they made plowing through a lot easier.

 

Are these carbon 2.5" spacers? it sort of sounds like it. If so the fit is pretty loose as you probably noticed. We use them for flat track racing although they are not ideal if you have to change wheels quick. It took me about 45 minutes each to get them properly centered the first time. This doesn't matter too much if you are not racing, but if you are running at high speed without centering, then you will lose a lot of traction from the wheel wobble. Also they can do rapid damage to your wheel or axle bearings if left in the "eccentric mode".

Once they have been installed the first time, if they are the carbon type, they will have a slight impression left from the hub. It is important to get them centered right the first time or this "detent" will make it difficult to ever get them on straight. We put them on just barely snug the first time, and then with the wheel jacked we used a flat bar to jimmy the wheel rim against the hub (there were gaps between the hub and the inside of the rims). We put a socket on the ground under the jacked up tire and measured the spacing between the tire and the socket. Because of the normal runout in the tire, it was hard to get anything less than 1/32" runout. (these were flat track tires so a little easier to see than lugged tires) But before we centered it we saw about 1/4" runout.

 

first of all, hckycoach? that just confused the hell outta me. 2nd of all if you guys ever buy wheel spacers dont buy durablue they break and then ur stuck wherever they break. buy highlifter aluminum wheel spacers. you can find them at www.highlifter.com

 

Sorry that confused you, I agree dont buy the durablue carbon spacers for the reasons above. We never broke any because I believe they were tight enough to squeeze the carbon and make the hub actually "seat" into the carbon. also it was flat track which is not nearly as hard on them as mx.
All I was trying to do was help the guy who got a "free" set of problems that I paid to own. I ordered the aluminum billet hubs, but the dealer got me durablue by mistake. We were pretty narrow, and needed to race so............ All I was talking about was getting the wheels centered on the axle which they wont do automatically because the clearance between the kit mounting bolts and the stud bores is so loose.