Are K&N and Dynojets bigger than the ones you can buy from the dealer. Like is a 142 Dynojet about the same size as a 148 from a dealer?

 

I just installed a Monster power kit from highlifter yesterday on my 01 Kodiak and had to rejet. According to the Dynojet instructions they are bigger or at least they flow better that the stockers. In fact, I took the stock #130 main jet out, only to replace it wit a Dynojet #130.

 

K&N jets are made by Dynojet so there the same thing. The Dynojets are a diffrent design, so the numbering system is diffrent as VISA found out the Dynojet 130 is actually bigger than the stock 130. Call Dynojets tell them what mods you have & altitude or where you live & they will recomend the proper jetting. I understand they are genarally right on. Do a plug check just to be sure though.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

K&N Jets are provided by Dyno jet. If you decide to go to an prodesign filter kit contact Dynojet before you will need to move the clip on the needle up most likely

 

its not the dyno jets are bigger its just a different number system. i have the pro-design kn filter set up, and i just used the factory jets i went from 140-145 mains and 22.5 pilots. to a 150-155 main and 25 pilot. i noticed a big dif. i spent a total of 15 bucks on my jets and i run with a buddy who has the dyno jet kit. i can't see a 50 dollar difference. yes the new needles and spring help but not that big of a difference maybee 1 more ponie at dif rmp.

01BLU660R

 

possibly I can shed some lite.
The dynojet jets have a different indexing system far as numbering goes. The dyno jet has a taper and a smaller hole.
I have not hierd this from dyno jet but this is what I have found from many years of installing and using dyno jet in almost every make and model machine. The hole is smaller but there is a taper, wich inturn makes them flow more fuel. In a carb , while running at open throttle, you are running off of all three circuts, within these circuts (idle, mid-range-and high speed) thier as a overlap were the higher circut comes in earlier enough not to lean out, these are your fat spots, they are very small time periods and barely noticeable.
The way the carb suplies fuel is through differential pressure between the venturi and float bowl.
So if you have a smaller hole the more pressure it requires to push fuel, but with a taper it allows the jet to flow at the same rate as a larger stock jet. Were this comes into play is it reduces the over lap of circuts and lets you give a more procise tunability.
Dyno jet puts so much into R&D work for each kit, yes thier is poeple who make thier own kits out of stock components, but they also alter needles, air/fuel mixtures, pilots and mains, but these are poeple that have a dyno sitting there and can tell what does what were and how. Dynojet provides a kit and directions for a vask amount of climates and elevation so many can have the same machine, the same mods, but different jetting requirements.
The $50 bucks is well worth it, and it does a good bit for the warrior and futer mods that may come.
One thing I can tell you for sure, I found only in the quads, is that the recommended main sizes that come with the kit run a little rich, but there again they supply a few mains for you to find your tuning point.
And these fellers are correct, dyno jet will always talk with you and help in so many ways it's unbelievable. So any questions you have just give them a call, they will floor you on how in two minutes they will have a answer and pull you out of a jam.
Hope this helped, I'm not trying to be a goo roo, but any time I can help out dyno jet I most certainly will, lord knows they have bailed me out, only a million or so times.

 

This is true. After talking to Dynojet on the phone a couple times they will impress you with their right on dialing in procedures.