Warrior Newbie.. Simple Questions..
#1
OK guys..
I have just a few questions... I have already made arrangements to get a swingarm skidplate.. Still looking over them.. I think I will either go with a AC Racing or PRM.. AC racing seems to be a well "supported" brand and is about 30 bucks cheaper than the PRM...
1.) Ok, where my chain runs from the front sprocket to the rear sprocket there are 3 black "roller" looking things.. one directly below the chain (largest of the 3) and then another one below and one above.. All 3 spin freely, But the small one above is all chewed up.. I am assuming I need a new one? Usually chewed up items are the one's you replace. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Anyway, what are these called.. where can I get new ones... and what are the best ones to get?
2.) I want to get some more performance out of it.. I am going to go with a new air filter.. Do I just need to buy a K&N stock replacement or is there a kit that will provide better performance than a K&N?
3.) Pipes.. I am looking at new pipes.. Will the Big Gun outflow the WB Series? What about the WB R pipes? I like the looks of them.. What I'm looking for is a pipe that provides best gains over the entire powerband..
4.) Jetting... What kit is the best? Or should I buy single jets? I am at about 973' ASL.. How hard is it to "re-jet?" I am mechanically inclined, just not a machine shop.. I do all my own work most of the time...
5.) Handguards... I hate getting slapped in the fingers by briars, etc.. I looked at some Acerbis.. What kinds would you guys reccomend?
I think that's it for now.. TIA
Jeff
I have just a few questions... I have already made arrangements to get a swingarm skidplate.. Still looking over them.. I think I will either go with a AC Racing or PRM.. AC racing seems to be a well "supported" brand and is about 30 bucks cheaper than the PRM...
1.) Ok, where my chain runs from the front sprocket to the rear sprocket there are 3 black "roller" looking things.. one directly below the chain (largest of the 3) and then another one below and one above.. All 3 spin freely, But the small one above is all chewed up.. I am assuming I need a new one? Usually chewed up items are the one's you replace. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Anyway, what are these called.. where can I get new ones... and what are the best ones to get?
2.) I want to get some more performance out of it.. I am going to go with a new air filter.. Do I just need to buy a K&N stock replacement or is there a kit that will provide better performance than a K&N?
3.) Pipes.. I am looking at new pipes.. Will the Big Gun outflow the WB Series? What about the WB R pipes? I like the looks of them.. What I'm looking for is a pipe that provides best gains over the entire powerband..
4.) Jetting... What kit is the best? Or should I buy single jets? I am at about 973' ASL.. How hard is it to "re-jet?" I am mechanically inclined, just not a machine shop.. I do all my own work most of the time...
5.) Handguards... I hate getting slapped in the fingers by briars, etc.. I looked at some Acerbis.. What kinds would you guys reccomend?
I think that's it for now.. TIA
Jeff
#2
1. They are called chain rollers, and the stockers suck, Ususally the bearings go out in them. Just before I sold my Raptor I put a couple of chain rollers on from TM Designworks; awesome setup. The TM's have two sealed bearings per roller and are made of a more modern material (I think it's urathane). I purchased them from Magic Racing, but a lot of people have them.
2. For the air filter setup go with a ProDesign adapter with your choice of a K&N/Outerwear or a foam air filter. I went the K&N route, but a lot of guys like the foam also. By using the ProDesign setup you get a positive mount for the filter which guarantees no dirt will get into the motor. The stock filter is held in by the airbox lid. **Or you can get just the replacement K&N air filter and get a Motoforce airbox lid. This lid is made out of clear Lexan and has two big holes in it for more airflow. Being clear, you can look through and check the air filter to see if it needs cleaning and not have to unbolt the cover.
3. Pipes. The WB E-Series rocks! It's also LOUD! If it were me I would go with the Big Gun. That way you have a choice of the race core or the quiet core. If you want the E-Series, buy mine! $175.00, including the quiet core (extra $40 over the $240 price of the pipe). Then I'll go buy the Big Gun.
4. Jetting changes are not too difficult on the Warrior (compared to the Raptor anyway) but the best (some say only) way to go is the Dynojet setup (or K&N jet kit, same EXACT kit). The Dynojet gives you new main jets AND a new needle. The main jet only changes the upper range of the power band, the new needle helps the middle, before you progress into the portion handles by the main jet. The Dynojet kit comes with detailed instructions and a sheet that helps explain the different circuits inside the carb (idle, low speed, mid-range, wide open) and a phone number is included if you have any questions.
5. Was just getting around to putting handguards on the Raptor when I sold it. Probably getting some by Enduro Engineering for the new WR, but not sure if they work on quads although they should. You can give them a call at (517) 393-2421 if you're interested. They have an aluminum bark buster with plastic shields. The owner raced National Enduros and ISDE, so he knows what's required in good guards.
2. For the air filter setup go with a ProDesign adapter with your choice of a K&N/Outerwear or a foam air filter. I went the K&N route, but a lot of guys like the foam also. By using the ProDesign setup you get a positive mount for the filter which guarantees no dirt will get into the motor. The stock filter is held in by the airbox lid. **Or you can get just the replacement K&N air filter and get a Motoforce airbox lid. This lid is made out of clear Lexan and has two big holes in it for more airflow. Being clear, you can look through and check the air filter to see if it needs cleaning and not have to unbolt the cover.
3. Pipes. The WB E-Series rocks! It's also LOUD! If it were me I would go with the Big Gun. That way you have a choice of the race core or the quiet core. If you want the E-Series, buy mine! $175.00, including the quiet core (extra $40 over the $240 price of the pipe). Then I'll go buy the Big Gun.
4. Jetting changes are not too difficult on the Warrior (compared to the Raptor anyway) but the best (some say only) way to go is the Dynojet setup (or K&N jet kit, same EXACT kit). The Dynojet gives you new main jets AND a new needle. The main jet only changes the upper range of the power band, the new needle helps the middle, before you progress into the portion handles by the main jet. The Dynojet kit comes with detailed instructions and a sheet that helps explain the different circuits inside the carb (idle, low speed, mid-range, wide open) and a phone number is included if you have any questions.
5. Was just getting around to putting handguards on the Raptor when I sold it. Probably getting some by Enduro Engineering for the new WR, but not sure if they work on quads although they should. You can give them a call at (517) 393-2421 if you're interested. They have an aluminum bark buster with plastic shields. The owner raced National Enduros and ISDE, so he knows what's required in good guards.
#3
Something to consider on the skidplate is the total amount of coverage. The PRM (I recommend it) has a "bucket" that completely covers the lower linkage. I do not know about the AC. I know the Armadillo brand does not fully cover the linkage.
#4
Fisher referred to the skidplates. If it's the only thing you ever do, DO NOT!! buy the AC racing brand swingarm skidplate. It is complete junk. The stock skidplate lasted longer than the $70 dollar AC. I would agree that the PRM is the best way to go, although I have not tried their's, it looks the best of all.
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