I have a 2000 Honda Rancher 350 in the garage that isn't putting any charge to the battery. I unhooked the connector from the stator and checked all prongs for power while pulling over the engine. There seems to be no power output from the stator so I was wondering if there are any other ways to be sure the stator is bad? Really appreciate any replies so I don't replace it if it is not the problem.

 

It could be alot of things besides the stator being bad and there is no way to test the stator by turning the motor and checking for fire even if no fire is being shown.

A dead cell within the beattery can cause this, and is more likely the problem than not. Everything must be connected and running continuity must be present for each check on a part when doing an electrical test.

If you aren't familiar with the electricals on an ATV, it is best to have your dealer diagnose the problem. Most shops only charge one hour of labor to perform this test and is well worth it.

To have any proper readings in any test, your battery must be fully charged. It should read no less 13.0 volts with it DISCONNECTED from the ATV.

With the engine running, how many volts do you get between the battery posts?? A proper charging system should read between 14.0 and 15.5 volts at close to 3000 RPM.

To eliminate the theory of a short, turn the ignition off and remove the "-" cable from the battery. Connect the "+" side of your ammeter to the "-" battery terminal and connect the other probe from the ammeter to the "-" battery lead wire. If it reads more than 0.1mA, then you have a short in the system somewhere causing the battery to be under constant drain.

I would also like to say that this is the first time I have heard of any battery charging problems from the Ranchers. I would look into the battery's condition before I did anything. We use a new battery in the shop before doing any electrical diagnostics.

Good luck, I hope you don't have too many headaches with this one, and hope you get it back in running order soon.

 

Bad ground? Hopefully you won't have to replace it. The specs and flow chasrt go like this.

1. bad battery yes or no( replace or go on )
2. check for system leakage ( 1mA max or .1 for non meter model, correct go on, incorrect go to A )
A. disconnect regulator/ectifier, if leak test is okay now replace regulator/rectifier. If still bad find shorted/damaged wiring, and/or test ignition switch.
3. check for ~1ohm on charging coil, if incorrect replace.
4. check for charging voltage, it should be greater than battery voltage but not to exceed 15.5V, if incorrect check for wiring damage.

 

I had already ruled out the regulator rectifier Checked all connections/wires. The bike is not putting out any charge at all. With the bike running the battery is draining down the whole time. With the key on and not running the battery stays stable.

Now there is a diode in the fuse box that does not show any power through whether the bike is on or off. Yes the diode is good (tested it) but what is this for since I don't have a manual?

All my findings so far still point towards the stator so how can I truly check this without splicing into those wires while running the quad?

Thanks again guys for your help I don't think this is a Honda problem just a abused quad.

 

A quick way to check a wire without unplugging harnesses or stripping/splicing is to use a pin or needle, (sorry these are just around my house, the lady sews.) They easily pierce insulation enough to use a meter on them.

added: Some of the ranchers are equipped with a carb heater, these will contribute to a drained battery in a couple hours with the ignition turned on if the quad isn't running.

 

Good idea! I did happen to get a test on the small red wire coming to the main battery terminal. I assume this must be connected from the stator to the regulator to the battery? No power again. I'm going to be receiving the shop manual in a couple of days to make sure the stator is bad. I'd hate to tell someone to buy a stator if this wasn't the problem.

I'll take a needle to the wires closer to stator on the case. Anyone know what reading I should get there?

 

I just had a crazy idea, have you checked that the terminals are screwed down tight on the battery, bike batteries are natorious for rattling those screws loose. If I remember I'll check the output pulses from the stator on mine tommarrow, I was going to install some new fog lights and I'll probaly do some electrical system inspection to make sure it'll support them while cruising without loosing charge.

 

some times battery,s just die after they are over a year old, get a new battery.

 

The battery is perfect, the terminals are perfect, the wires are perfect, the ground is perfect and no charge from the stator. I'm pretty confident on the stator but still would like a way to make 200% sure. My buddy was going to get a manual for it but hasn't yet. If anyone has one could they check to see how to truly test the stator in the bike without removing it? Thanks again guys for your help but remember now I have gone over this thing with a fine tooth comb so I'm confident that it's the stator. I just wish I had another 350 here to test a few things on.

 

While at the counter of my dealer,some guy came in with the same problem.He also had the 2000.May be a problem from the factory or a bad batch of batterys.My battery's not the best either.