grizzly valve adjustments
May 16, 2002 | 07:28 PM
#1
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Pro Rider
Joined: Nov 2001
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hey guys,
I have desited to go for it and adjust my own valves on my new grizzly. the dealer wants $200.00 to do it, and i am fairly machanical so i will do it myself.
in my manual, it says to take off the front rack, fenders, seat, gas tank, and pull start. is all this necessary, or can i get away with just removing the tank? i have the c.d. on the job, and it seems pritty streight foward on how to do it. and and all sudjestions would be really appreciated!!! thanks, Ron
my pictures
I have desited to go for it and adjust my own valves on my new grizzly. the dealer wants $200.00 to do it, and i am fairly machanical so i will do it myself.
in my manual, it says to take off the front rack, fenders, seat, gas tank, and pull start. is all this necessary, or can i get away with just removing the tank? i have the c.d. on the job, and it seems pritty streight foward on how to do it. and and all sudjestions would be really appreciated!!! thanks, Ron
my pictures
May 16, 2002 | 08:09 PM
#2
Trailblazer
Joined: Mar 2001
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All you have to remove are the tank and recoil, but you do have to remove the front rack to get to the 2 front tank bolts. To get to the exhaust valves take off the right front tire and reach in from there, it's much easier than removing all the plastic, plus I dont see where that would be any better, as they are pointing downward [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
I have done mine twice this way, and a buddies also once. I need to do mine again I think, thanks for reminding me [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
I have done mine twice this way, and a buddies also once. I need to do mine again I think, thanks for reminding me [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
May 20, 2002 | 04:06 PM
#4
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Thanks for the info Repete. i am going to do it that way, and try to figure out how to actually adjust valves, lol.
frogman. i have 70 hours on mine now, and just to be safe, i am going to do them. i have heard from numerous people that theres didn't need it. my brother had his done at 24 hours, and 1 valve was out 1 thousands. a little preventitave measures might go a long ways twards a solid engine for years to come, i hope, lol.
repete, if by chance i run into something i dont quite understand, then is it o.k. if i ask? sounds to me you are fast becoming an ol' prow at doing this. i read that you need a special wrench from yamaha to adjust them? i am guessing 2 small( maybe 3 mill) wrenchs should work?
thanks again, RON
\
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frogman. i have 70 hours on mine now, and just to be safe, i am going to do them. i have heard from numerous people that theres didn't need it. my brother had his done at 24 hours, and 1 valve was out 1 thousands. a little preventitave measures might go a long ways twards a solid engine for years to come, i hope, lol.
repete, if by chance i run into something i dont quite understand, then is it o.k. if i ask? sounds to me you are fast becoming an ol' prow at doing this. i read that you need a special wrench from yamaha to adjust them? i am guessing 2 small( maybe 3 mill) wrenchs should work?
thanks again, RON
\
my pictures
May 20, 2002 | 05:39 PM
#5
Trailblazer
Joined: Mar 2001
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Ron, I just used needle nose pliers, they worked very well. Also my intake valves were very tight, no clearance, at 30 hrs, and still tight at 100 hrs when I did them the second time, so keep at 'em. I'll let you know how they are when I do them again, which should be soon. Don't hesitate to give a shout if you have any ?'s, I'll help if I can.
Pete
Pete
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