Which will lean out my plug? 32-1/40-1/52-1 mixture?
Jul 18, 2002 | 01:39 PM
#1
Thread Starter
|
Pro Rider
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
Plug is still a little black after all the things I have done (as listed in previous thread) would changing the mixture lean it out? If so, which mixture? I am running 42-1 now. I am running Castor #927 oil
Ron
Ron
Jul 18, 2002 | 01:53 PM
#3
Thread Starter
|
Pro Rider
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
Here is previous thread:
http://forums.atvconnection.com/mess...2&start=61
I have jetted down from #148 to a #140, which is 2 steps down. The ATC is stock too! Although, I am at 3,000 +/- above sea level. What else is left?
Ron
http://forums.atvconnection.com/mess...2&start=61
I have jetted down from #148 to a #140, which is 2 steps down. The ATC is stock too! Although, I am at 3,000 +/- above sea level. What else is left?
Ron
Jul 18, 2002 | 01:58 PM
#4
Thread Starter
|
Pro Rider
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
THIS IS WHY I GET CONFUSED, I READ THIS. HELP?
Before we get into the different parts of the carburetor and how they effect gasoline delivery I want to stop for a second and define the terms RICHER and LEANER. I know these terms can cause some trouble for those who are new to the sport or new to carburetor tuning and they are often used incorrectly. The terms RICHER and LEANER refer to the amount of GASOLINE being delivered to the engine and not the amount of oil. If you’ve done a plug reading at wide open throttle and the plug indicates you are running rich ( dark brown to black ) this is an indication that too much gas is being delivered to the engine and not too much oil. I know there are people that will say "You’re running too rich, try to change your premix ration from 42 parts gas: 1 part oil ( 42:1 ) to 50 parts gas : 1 part oil, that should lean things out a little ". This is in fact increasing the amount of gasoline ( 8 more parts of gas for each part of oil ) and causing the engine to run RICHER rather than leaner. If you remember richer and leaner are referring to the amount of gasoline being delivered this will all make much more sense.
Before we get into the different parts of the carburetor and how they effect gasoline delivery I want to stop for a second and define the terms RICHER and LEANER. I know these terms can cause some trouble for those who are new to the sport or new to carburetor tuning and they are often used incorrectly. The terms RICHER and LEANER refer to the amount of GASOLINE being delivered to the engine and not the amount of oil. If you’ve done a plug reading at wide open throttle and the plug indicates you are running rich ( dark brown to black ) this is an indication that too much gas is being delivered to the engine and not too much oil. I know there are people that will say "You’re running too rich, try to change your premix ration from 42 parts gas: 1 part oil ( 42:1 ) to 50 parts gas : 1 part oil, that should lean things out a little ". This is in fact increasing the amount of gasoline ( 8 more parts of gas for each part of oil ) and causing the engine to run RICHER rather than leaner. If you remember richer and leaner are referring to the amount of gasoline being delivered this will all make much more sense.
Jul 18, 2002 | 03:01 PM
#5
Pro Rider
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 0
Well stated DesertBurn, what you've read is reality!
It seems odd... but it's true!
When I switched from MC-1 at 32:1 to Amsoil at 50:1, I had to drop 4 sizes on the Main, and 1 on the pilot to get it leaned out enough to run.
I would highly recommend you purchase a carb tuning manual (Mikuni has a great one, not sure what's available from Keihin)
to learn and understand what the different tuning circuits do and the proper way to adjust them.
It's really not that hard to properly jet, just takes some time and understanding.
Good luck
It seems odd... but it's true!
When I switched from MC-1 at 32:1 to Amsoil at 50:1, I had to drop 4 sizes on the Main, and 1 on the pilot to get it leaned out enough to run.
I would highly recommend you purchase a carb tuning manual (Mikuni has a great one, not sure what's available from Keihin)
to learn and understand what the different tuning circuits do and the proper way to adjust them.
It's really not that hard to properly jet, just takes some time and understanding.
Good luck
Jul 18, 2002 | 04:18 PM
#7
Pro Rider
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
go to Carb Site and read IT. about 2/3 of the way down, there is a diagram of how and when the different parts of your carb work.
DO NOT...EVER...NEVER...change your mixture to correct for a mistuned carb!!!!
you shouldn't even change oils, your motor gets used to one brand and if it likes it will not run on another brand.
2 strokes in paticular are very touchy to changes in temp, humidity, and pressure. I've had to change jets during a ride just the other day becuase we started out in the morning it was 60 with little humidity and around noon it was 90 with 70% humidity.
with time you will learn, just make sure that it's never too lean.
read that site...bookmark it....reference it. it'll be a huge help!
DO NOT...EVER...NEVER...change your mixture to correct for a mistuned carb!!!!
you shouldn't even change oils, your motor gets used to one brand and if it likes it will not run on another brand.
2 strokes in paticular are very touchy to changes in temp, humidity, and pressure. I've had to change jets during a ride just the other day becuase we started out in the morning it was 60 with little humidity and around noon it was 90 with 70% humidity.
with time you will learn, just make sure that it's never too lean.
read that site...bookmark it....reference it. it'll be a huge help!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)