for some reason my rear brakes lost their ability to brake. I bled them and I was able to bring them back to their original braking power, if you can call it that.

I have read through several posts about the rear brakes but I wanted to know if I could replace the rear master cylinder with an aftermarket unit to make them work like real brakes?

 

If you have a 2001, I think you already have the best brakes out there. If your master cylinder is all black, and has the sight-glass on top that's the good one. You can get a Magura brake assembly for the LH bars like Hot Seats old split brake kit. Braking now makes the Wave rotors, supposed to be lighter wt. not sure if they brake better. As far as the concentric models...late 98 and newer (someone correct me if I'm wrong on that 98 date) the rear only foot brake has never been a great performer.
Another idea, HPD sells drilled front rotors, lighter, and helps cooling. Also Hot Seat sells some "racing pads" from Braking that are supposed to work nicely. Periodically bleeding the system is one of your better maint. practices.

Ken

 

The 2001 Brakes are greatly improved
It sounds like you are using the foot brake???
I NEVER USE IT.
I know the foot brake assemblies are very Different between my 99 and 2000 model. My Foot brake on the 99 sticks up much higher and has more travel. As far as function like I said I never use it????????????? I think this is the Rear brake lever change MODQUAD was refering to.
The 2000 just seems like there is not much there,Not enough travel to do anything.

 

Yep, I am using the foot brake. I don't feel like doing a dirt dive going down steep hills. I just need the drag so I don't pick up speed.

Sorry I was not clear, I am looking at something else for the rear brake. The main system works just fine. Like I said I don't like lifting the rear while going down hill and avoiding deep washed out areas. For some reason the rear brake went out but I did not notice until I off loaded it at the Badlands. I almost fliped negotiating a washed out area there.



<< I NEVER USE IT. >>



I guess you don't need your rear brake when your riding snowmobile trails!
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

true true
I will have to see if the 99 rear is better, It stick up much higher and seem to have the ability to apply more presure.

 

Being the little innovator that I am, I disconnected the line that
leads from the rear brake up to the junction box and plugged the
hole. Next, I went to NAPA and bought a &quot;T&quot;. I re-used all my
hardware and ran a new line to the rear brake master cylinder.
The rear brake works pretty good now!

 

Goof, I may have an idea on your brakes, first I see you are from Aurora and thats cool because thats where I am originally from, small world huh? I had the same problem with my scrambler brakes and I bought mine new, mine faded to nothing so I bled them, still nothing, I removed the rear caliper then seperated it in half, removed the brake piston, and discovered there were small metal shavings preventing the piston from compressing the brake pads. So some compressed air to clear the insides of the caliper, reassembly, bled 'em, and good to go. I also enlarged the internal ports inside the caliper, the rear brakes will lock even on a hard surface.
See ya

SS

 

ScamX, I'll have to try that but I think I'll wait for winter. Still lots of great riding time before I have to compete with snowmobiles!

I think I know what you are talking about with the internal ports but I will verify that when I get it off the bike.

I think I would rather be in Indiana. Your closer to the Badlands!

Buba, Sorry for the snowmobile trail thing. Couldn't help it since I once lived in Michigan myself!