NEED SOME HELP WITH ENGINE REBUILDING AND PVL IGNITION ON BANSHEE!
#1
Hey how's it goin? I'm rebuilding my motor and I have quite a few questions. 1)is the right ball bearing on the mainshaft supposed to have a piece of the cage that comes out and lets the ***** move all around? 2)any good easy ways to put the primary drive shaft on a new uninstalled crank? 3)how tight should I torque the case bolts? the manual sayz 7lbs. but that doesn't seem like very much. should I use loctite blue? 4)Where can I find the dial indicator for the sparkplug hole for settin up the PVL cause it says to use that and go 2mm BTDC, or can I use a degree wheel instead? 5)How do I mount the separate PVL coils?
Sorry for the long message. thanks
Sorry for the long message. thanks
#2
1) Not sure what you mean.
2) Do you mean the drive gear? If so, tap it on and tighten the nut.
3) Sounds about right. Definetly use blue loctite. I like a little anti-seize on the bolt shaft.
4) I would rather use a degree wheel. If you don't know the exact degree before TDC that is needed, try this: In 1 rev of crank, the piston goes up and then down. Take the stroke (I am hitting my head against the monitor trying to remember the length of stock stroke) times 2. We'll call this number A. Take A minus 2 (2mm before TDC), to get B. Divide B by A to get a percentage (C). Multiply C by 360 (degrees of crank rotation) go get D. Subtract D from 360. This will be the degrees BTDC. Hope I wasn't too confusing.
Have you already ordered the PVL? I just ordered the Dyna FS programable yesterday. With the Dyna, you don't have to mess with the stator plate timing, can run stock stator, coils, and wiring harness. It comes with 4 timing curves with dip switches to toggle between them. If you feel you need a different curve, they have a computer program that allows you to program your ignition at home. I don't know of anyone who has tried it yet. I will post my opinions in the next couple of days.
2) Do you mean the drive gear? If so, tap it on and tighten the nut.
3) Sounds about right. Definetly use blue loctite. I like a little anti-seize on the bolt shaft.
4) I would rather use a degree wheel. If you don't know the exact degree before TDC that is needed, try this: In 1 rev of crank, the piston goes up and then down. Take the stroke (I am hitting my head against the monitor trying to remember the length of stock stroke) times 2. We'll call this number A. Take A minus 2 (2mm before TDC), to get B. Divide B by A to get a percentage (C). Multiply C by 360 (degrees of crank rotation) go get D. Subtract D from 360. This will be the degrees BTDC. Hope I wasn't too confusing.
Have you already ordered the PVL? I just ordered the Dyna FS programable yesterday. With the Dyna, you don't have to mess with the stator plate timing, can run stock stator, coils, and wiring harness. It comes with 4 timing curves with dip switches to toggle between them. If you feel you need a different curve, they have a computer program that allows you to program your ignition at home. I don't know of anyone who has tried it yet. I will post my opinions in the next couple of days.
#3
yeah I already ordered the PVL. what happened was my flywheel was crap as well as the wire harness, and my stator went out. so I got a pro-flo that came with no timing mark so they sent me the PVL.
what I mean about the bearing;it's the one on the shaft the clutch is on, right behind the basket. on the side that's in the gearbox, there's a metal piece that comes out and it has grooves in it that that "space" the ball bearings.
and with the primary drive gear, what can I use to hold the crank while I tighten the nut?
what I mean about the bearing;it's the one on the shaft the clutch is on, right behind the basket. on the side that's in the gearbox, there's a metal piece that comes out and it has grooves in it that that "space" the ball bearings.
and with the primary drive gear, what can I use to hold the crank while I tighten the nut?
#4
I think I know what bearing you are meaning. My girlfriend is in the hospital, but if I get a chance tonight, I will look in my manual. To tighten the crank nut, I install the clutch basket and hold it with a large screwdriver, tire tool, etc through the slots in the basket.
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