Gremlins Part 2
#1
Well Folks I think I have made progress. I hope this will or may help somebody else in the future.
Woke up this morning and decided that I am not going to make that short but painful trip over to the dealers. I rolled up the sleeves and dove into a world of cannondale technology. What the heck...I have always done my own work on anything and everything. I guess that previously I figured since I paid premium $$price for a quad plus bought a couple other units that I would use my dealers services that come with such purchases. Also that every time I would call my tech guys on basic questions, they would sort of encourage me to just bring it in and not to mess with quad. They have all the software and can just hook it up and diagnose the unit.
Since I charged the battery over night. I figured it would turnover and fire right up...in which it did. So I rode it around for a bit just to establish a baseline feel for everything again and also just in case I really mess something up and maybe not be able to ride her again for awhile.
Started with the front brakes as when I had the oil belching problem. My rotors and calipers were really covered in oil. So I pulled everything apart and using brake cleaner and cleaned them up good...work great once again.
Next I moved onto the clutch...now while riding previously I thought /felt the clutch tranny seemed fine but while riding again this morning there just seemed to be something just not quite there yet...still a little ratchety and not linear on the lever pull. So I drained the tranny cleaned the filter and moved onto pulling the clutch cover. I noticed a small amount of debris in the bottom housing...kind of looked like some plate shavings or something. So I pulled the clutch pack to clean and inspected everything. Everything looked fine nothing broke so I re-soaked plates in oil and reinstalled. The pieces must of been left over from the previous clutch pack. Refilled fluid and then bled the system for the hydraulic clutch. Also inspected those studs regarding the new bulletin update all seemed fine...I feel much better now after checking this out.
Went to start it up and nothing but the dull click click....ok now we're back wear I need to be to trouble shoot. First I checked the battery....yep battery dead showing 5+ volts. I then jumped it with car battery and it fired right up. I then checked the battery and it was showing 10.8 volts at idle and 11.7 at about 3-4000 rpm...guessing here, I did not have any way to check rpm without the software package. Next I checked the reg/rec and it was showing 14 volts at idle and above.....well charging system works. Still feeling better cause from here on out it can't or shouldn't be too expensive to fix or replace.
I then pulled the battery to check for wear through and while it is defiantly rubbing it was not wore through the battery housing. I cleaned the battery and put a piece of .020 lexan in between the battery and engine mount case to act as a buffer ...this should take awhile for this to rub through this lexan if it even does.
Ok while I was removing the battery I noticed crusty corrosion on the LH. or front terminal of the (I believe starter relay/solenoid) cable that runs to the battery. I had put grease on all my connection prior to running the cross country races but did not remove the terminals and put any on the bottom sides. Anyway it appears that electrolysis had taken place do to the dissimilar metals of the bolt and terminals. So I did the baking soda and water cleaning trick to battery posts and all terminal connections.
Next I inspected all wires and harnesses that I could get to and see...well I found another bare spot on the blue wire that leads to the fuel pressure pump plug. We had found a bare spot some what lower on this same wire previously when the ECU had burned out. So I pulled the plug and installed heat shrink over the entire wire/wires and that half of the plug.
So LT250 and Markevette you may now move to the front of the class and receive your A for the day as I think you guys pretty much hit this one real close. I am still a little suspect of the battery though in that it may be bad and simply is not up to the Cannondale quads demands and/or able to handle the vibrations from the engine and abuse from the off-road environment.
Finished up just after noon and put another charge into the battery and ......
guess....
what....
I rode this Hot Rod the rest of the day...till dark and I shut it off and started it so many times that I thought I would wear out the start button and it did just great.....
The clutch and tranny felt/feels the best it ever has....If you have had a chance to ride the new Z-400's well this is what both my tranny and clutch pull feel like. Getting it into neutral is now once again a pleasure. BTW I had paid for the thicker clutch update from my dealer I did not have them warranty as I felt that running those two GNCC's that they were probably pretty abusive on the clutch...especially the tight sections at the Iron Man along with my bike quitting a few times left me in some awkward situations requiring much clutch work to get going again.
ahhhh I am at one with me quad again...life is good
Now I know that there have been many different variations revolving around this battery thing...I feel that our ECU's are very sensitive to proper voltage and current flow. I am starting to think that many dealers and owners have been on wild goose chases changing and replacing many items at a cost probably to Cannondale and causing much aggravation for themselves in trying to resolve this....I feel it is a simple thing as corroded battery terminals and or chaffed wiring somewhere in the E-system.....I hope I'm right and hope this is a step in the right direction for us all.....
I also did some experimenting with the 24 volt battery thing regarding quicker starts...I got a few opinions on this also, but I'll save that for another post....gotta get ready for the races.
thanks all, appreciate you putting up with my painful gremlin postings...
BTW did I mention that this thing RRRRiiiiPPPPs with the HMF and Blaze map!!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Woke up this morning and decided that I am not going to make that short but painful trip over to the dealers. I rolled up the sleeves and dove into a world of cannondale technology. What the heck...I have always done my own work on anything and everything. I guess that previously I figured since I paid premium $$price for a quad plus bought a couple other units that I would use my dealers services that come with such purchases. Also that every time I would call my tech guys on basic questions, they would sort of encourage me to just bring it in and not to mess with quad. They have all the software and can just hook it up and diagnose the unit.
Since I charged the battery over night. I figured it would turnover and fire right up...in which it did. So I rode it around for a bit just to establish a baseline feel for everything again and also just in case I really mess something up and maybe not be able to ride her again for awhile.
Started with the front brakes as when I had the oil belching problem. My rotors and calipers were really covered in oil. So I pulled everything apart and using brake cleaner and cleaned them up good...work great once again.
Next I moved onto the clutch...now while riding previously I thought /felt the clutch tranny seemed fine but while riding again this morning there just seemed to be something just not quite there yet...still a little ratchety and not linear on the lever pull. So I drained the tranny cleaned the filter and moved onto pulling the clutch cover. I noticed a small amount of debris in the bottom housing...kind of looked like some plate shavings or something. So I pulled the clutch pack to clean and inspected everything. Everything looked fine nothing broke so I re-soaked plates in oil and reinstalled. The pieces must of been left over from the previous clutch pack. Refilled fluid and then bled the system for the hydraulic clutch. Also inspected those studs regarding the new bulletin update all seemed fine...I feel much better now after checking this out.
Went to start it up and nothing but the dull click click....ok now we're back wear I need to be to trouble shoot. First I checked the battery....yep battery dead showing 5+ volts. I then jumped it with car battery and it fired right up. I then checked the battery and it was showing 10.8 volts at idle and 11.7 at about 3-4000 rpm...guessing here, I did not have any way to check rpm without the software package. Next I checked the reg/rec and it was showing 14 volts at idle and above.....well charging system works. Still feeling better cause from here on out it can't or shouldn't be too expensive to fix or replace.
I then pulled the battery to check for wear through and while it is defiantly rubbing it was not wore through the battery housing. I cleaned the battery and put a piece of .020 lexan in between the battery and engine mount case to act as a buffer ...this should take awhile for this to rub through this lexan if it even does.
Ok while I was removing the battery I noticed crusty corrosion on the LH. or front terminal of the (I believe starter relay/solenoid) cable that runs to the battery. I had put grease on all my connection prior to running the cross country races but did not remove the terminals and put any on the bottom sides. Anyway it appears that electrolysis had taken place do to the dissimilar metals of the bolt and terminals. So I did the baking soda and water cleaning trick to battery posts and all terminal connections.
Next I inspected all wires and harnesses that I could get to and see...well I found another bare spot on the blue wire that leads to the fuel pressure pump plug. We had found a bare spot some what lower on this same wire previously when the ECU had burned out. So I pulled the plug and installed heat shrink over the entire wire/wires and that half of the plug.
So LT250 and Markevette you may now move to the front of the class and receive your A for the day as I think you guys pretty much hit this one real close. I am still a little suspect of the battery though in that it may be bad and simply is not up to the Cannondale quads demands and/or able to handle the vibrations from the engine and abuse from the off-road environment.
Finished up just after noon and put another charge into the battery and ......
guess....
what....
I rode this Hot Rod the rest of the day...till dark and I shut it off and started it so many times that I thought I would wear out the start button and it did just great.....
The clutch and tranny felt/feels the best it ever has....If you have had a chance to ride the new Z-400's well this is what both my tranny and clutch pull feel like. Getting it into neutral is now once again a pleasure. BTW I had paid for the thicker clutch update from my dealer I did not have them warranty as I felt that running those two GNCC's that they were probably pretty abusive on the clutch...especially the tight sections at the Iron Man along with my bike quitting a few times left me in some awkward situations requiring much clutch work to get going again.
ahhhh I am at one with me quad again...life is good
Now I know that there have been many different variations revolving around this battery thing...I feel that our ECU's are very sensitive to proper voltage and current flow. I am starting to think that many dealers and owners have been on wild goose chases changing and replacing many items at a cost probably to Cannondale and causing much aggravation for themselves in trying to resolve this....I feel it is a simple thing as corroded battery terminals and or chaffed wiring somewhere in the E-system.....I hope I'm right and hope this is a step in the right direction for us all.....
I also did some experimenting with the 24 volt battery thing regarding quicker starts...I got a few opinions on this also, but I'll save that for another post....gotta get ready for the races.
thanks all, appreciate you putting up with my painful gremlin postings...
BTW did I mention that this thing RRRRiiiiPPPPs with the HMF and Blaze map!!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
#2
damn you mean i finally helped someone out. im glad you found your problem and didnt have to make that long drive. we race tomorrow but after that the moto gets a good pm job. you can bet all wires and connections will be checked and cleaned. i think that is something all dale riders need to keep in mind. these quads have a lot of electronics on them and that part of the quad needs attention too. glad i could help
#3
Well is good to hear you got the problem fixed and it was something simple. I'm glad I could help. I feel I'm just returning the favor. Alot of people on here help out a ton so for me to pitch in it's like part of the duty of being a cannondale owner and member of this Forum.
So are you planning on racing at Hocking Valley tommorrow then? If so I'll see you there. I'll be on me cannondale. Goodluck and thanks for the reply I'm going to have to take the time and go through the wiring on mine and make sure there is no corrosion.
So are you planning on racing at Hocking Valley tommorrow then? If so I'll see you there. I'll be on me cannondale. Goodluck and thanks for the reply I'm going to have to take the time and go through the wiring on mine and make sure there is no corrosion.
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