Just got a question about our two Grizzlies. We just turned fifty hours on them today but they are getting louder with a little more vibration. (They sound almost the same) It sounds almost like it's burning out the muffler, but they are loud and seem to vibrate more than when they were new. It's doesn't seem like a big deal because they actually run better and are more responsive but I don't know whether or not I need to worry or if this is just because they are breaking in. Had the 20 hour service done and the valves adjusted, no problems so far. Has anyone else experienced this or knows what causes this?

Thanks for any input.

 

Both of my griz's did the same. It's just the bike breaking in.

Ya might want to "re-check" the valves soon (do it yourself, it's easy and you will know it was done right). The intake valves (the middle and right one) seem to go out of wack for a while, or if you run your bike hot.

I noticed that my muffler keeps getting a little louder every so many hours. I have to set the idle down now and then too. Make sure to watch the sparkplug, because you will start running a little thin. If so, rich'n up the gas/air.

Hope that helps!

God's speed and safe fly'n!

Jonathan

 

Thanks for the reply.

Do I need to buy the service manual to see how to check the valves? Do I need any special tools to check them? I really don't know much about mechanicing except how to do the oil changes and check the cv boots, minor stuff like that. Checked the plug and it looks ok (not fouled), what should I look for to see if the gas/air mixture is right? How do you know when the gas/air mixture is right?

Sorry for all the questions, but don't want to damage anything by not knowing what to do.

 

For the gas/air mixture: When you check the plug, it should look dark. The griz is setup to run "rich" normally. If your plug starts to show white on it, then you are running "thin". That is when you need to have a mechanic adjust the carb.

As far as the idle: Under the right-side black cover, there is a screw-head that is near the gas tank. It is connected to the carb by a LONG cable that is covered. That is the idle screw. While your bike is running, you can turn the screw to set the idle. If the bike starts cutting out/dying, then your idle is to low. If the bike is hard to shift/doesnt want to go in gear or the bike wants to jump when you get it into gear, then the idle is to high.

You can purchase a yammy CD or manual that will tell you how to set the valves. The only special tools that i recommend is: 1. Yammy valve tool. 2. Feeler gauge.
The rest of the tools are common. There is a little work involved with adjusting the valves, like taking off the gas tank and stuff. Not really that hard to do at all, but time consuming the first time that you do it.

You can do a search on this forum and i am sure that someone has the instructions laid out for doing the valves.

The one thing that i look at when adjusting the valves is, make sure that when you put the feeler gauge in, that you leave it in place while to tighten the locknut on the top. The reason i say this is, when you tighten the locknut, it can change the gap on the valve.

You have two places to work when doing the valves. One is right under the sparkplug (under a cover on the engine) and the other is directly below the gas tank.

The first time that i did mine, i had a friend that had done it before so that i could make sure i knew what i was doing. After watching/helping, i would NEVER pay to have someone else do it. It is really easy and you get to clean some of the spots that would never get clean without the gas tank and front hood off.

Since this bike is new to you, watch out for going into to deep of water. Under the hood and under the rear rack there are vents for the transmission. Water can get into the tranny and cause the belt to slip. Not that big of a deal unless there is sand/dirt in the water, then you could run into some trouble and you should take it in to have it re-greased. If you just get some water in it, there is a drain plug on the right side, just above the floor panel. It is a "butterfly" type of plug and is sometimes kinda hard to pull out. It pulls straight out and is not threaded or anything. I recommend leaving the bike running while you pull the plug to help dry the tranny out, also rock the bike side-to-side while it is draining.

Have you put any tires on it? or are you running pretty much stock?

The only other thing that i would do, is put a toggle switch in that will over-ride the reverse rev. limiter.

I really don't think that you need to over-ride the limiter if you don't put bigger tires on it. But, it is a must if you change tires.

If you want to know how to do the by-pass, let me know. I can tell ya how and it is easy and CHEAP.

Hope to help!

Jonathan

 

I would like to know how you bypass the rev-limiter on the reverse. When I get deep in the mud it will hinder you from getting out. Also on adjusting the valves does the cd show you how to do it I am sure mine needs to be checked. They don't seem to make any noise???? I have been through a rough time with the spittin and sputterin deal. I think I got it fixed. It gets really hot here in fla. which makes it get worse. I wrapped the exhaust in a wrap material made by "cool it". I had used it before on car headers and it worked great. So far I have done no more mods but wrapped the exhaust and no problems. It seems these bilkes are consistant with the same problems according to this forum. This is a great place for info. Thanks for the info.

Jerry
02' grizzly
dark green
26" itp mud lites
2500 warn winch
all aluminum guards

 

Wow,

Thank you for all the information, it helped a bunch. I think I'll buy the CD and check the valves myself. My machines are both stock, I have no complaints so far, they are awesome. I've thought about putting on a reverse override, but I wasn't sure if it would void the extended warranty. I have to get oil and filters for the service soon so I'll also get a valve tool. How often do you change your oil? I plan on doing it about every 50 hours.

How do you like riding in Michigan? I lived in Reed City for two years, then moved back to the mountains of Colorado. I missed the mountains, but liked Michigan too.

Thanks again for all the information

Arron

 

Jerry,

Most of the sputter'n is from the gas turning to vapor before/in the carb. You did it right by wrapping the exhaust. Another thing is using "jet-hot". It is a black type paint that you have put on your exhaust. You can aslo wrap the fuel-line that goes to the carb and put foil tape on the bowl of the carb to help.

You might also experience a "vapor-lock" on the griz. Sometimes the ball in the gas tank lid will get stuck or the overflow line can get plugged. If the bike doesnt want to start or cuts out on you, take the cap off and see if it runs. I have had this happen to me when mudding and the line got plugged.

To bypass the rev. limiter: Under the left side black cover, there is a wiring bundle near the gas tank. In that bundle, there is a green wire. Splice into that wire and run a lead to your toggle switch. Off the other terminal of the toggle, run a wire to a ground (ie. the engine block, frame, etc.).

When you toggle your switch, it will fool the computer into thinking that you are not in reverse, when you really are. Thus, it gives you full RPMs. You will know that you done it right when the reverse light goes out and you are in reverse. It's that simple. I recommend using a SMALL black plastic toggle and put it right in the middle of the handle bars on the black cover. Some put two toggles there, one for the bypass and another for hand warmers. It really makes the bike look sharp!

The CD might not show you HOW to do them, but does show you where and the specs. You can do a search on this site and there will be instructions on how exactly to do it. Too much for me to type over....hehe ALSO, i never really heard the valves "clank'n" or anything. What you will notice is a loss in performance. You really need to check them, and once you do, it's easy.


Arron,

I change my oil about every 50 hours. As far as losing your warranty......it all depends on your dealer. I have the 3 year warranty and they don't care what i do to the bike. What matters is, if it breaks.....what causes it (ie: manufacturer defect vs. YOUR FAULT) hehe You really need to talk to your dealer about it....and if he is not willing to work on the bike after you do it...... FIND ANOTHER DEALER! That was one of the most important things about me picking the griz, was what dealers there were around me. Polaris wasn't a great bike, but even worse.....the dealer was an A$$. Same with the other brands.......bad dealers make bad costumer service. I feel that my experience with the maintenance people is the most important over which brand to choose. All the top bikes are good (some better than others), but if you can't get any work done.....then why buy it?

Also, i am in the Upper Pen. of Michigan. I love the trails up here. All kinds of terrain to ride in. There are mountain'y areas, swamps, rivers, woods, sand pits....you name it. I love it here in the summer. The winter SUCKS....lol My wife graduates from radiology school next August and we are going to move to Florida. She is going to school in Cape Coral for radiation therapy for one year. After that, we are going to be snow birds. Up here in the summer, Florida for the winters. I just put the house for sale two days ago. I have two showings today and have had a dozen calls on the place already. I havent even ran a news add yet! I think that we will just rent an apartment until she grad's, so i dont have to worry about selling it when we have to move. I would love to go out to Colorado sometime and ride!! It will be a while before i can afford to do it though. Only one income and we are both back in school. BUT, once she graduates, we will be sitting pretty!!! THEN>>>>> The rides are on!

I think that we are going to settle around Sarasota or St. Pete Florida. I just hope there is alot of places that i can ride. I love my bikes. Also, i want to pick up a couple of Jet Skis. After the research...i think that i will be buying Wave Runners made by Yamaha as well.

Your welcome to come back to Michigan and i will take ya on the trip of your life! I have taken several on trips up here. There is a guy that charges 50 bucks a head to give tours.........I charge one lunch at the bar-n-grill that is a halfway point!!!! hehe


Later and God's speed!

Jonathan

 

Jonathan,
Thanks for the info on the bypass rev-limiter, like i said here in fl you can get into some soupy sitations that it will hurt you from getting out. So far the gas boil problem has not been a problem since I wrapped the exhaust. I know when I ride now the side panels are cool not hot so it must be working. I knew if anything would work that "be cool" wrap would. I find your post on adjusting the valves, I'm sure mine needs it.
When you move to florida or come down look us up we ride in the Ocala National Forest, about 2 hours from St. Pete. We currently have plenty of riding area over 400,000 acres, although I have heard they are working on a "access plan" to limit our riding. We have started a club called East Marion ATV Trailriders, we are about 2 months old and already over 60 members. Anyway thanks again for the info.
Jerry
02' Grizzly
Dark Green
26" ITP Mud-Lites
2500 Warn Winch
All aluminum guards
reverse rev-limiter over-ride(soon)