On these engines the is no timing adjust. The advance is done all electical. So unless the sensor failed some way mechanically(not likely and have the engine run at all) then the timing is good. These engines have no mechanical or vacuum advance, so your theory doesn't hold water. And besides your theory on timing and running best are pure bull and no mechanic or engineer will agree with you. I raced and won for more years than you went to school and you no not of what you speak of.

 

i have a cleaner exactly liken that except it is by snap on so it cost like 70 bucks. inside the sack in the top is sand right? and u put it on an air compressor? cuz thats what i have.

 

Thanks bear
I'm purchasing the wench this weekend and will install it myself any pointers? (Warn) right from my dealer for AC 05 TRV

 

The expensive plugs are an gimmick and do no better than the cheap stock ones and last no longer either. Otherwise save your money and put what the manufacture put in there after major testing. A new plug once a year is the best maintenance thing you can do and it's cheap too. A fuel system cleaner in the tank once a month is the second best thing you can do.

 

Besides I don't think the big engines are anything but dangerous for 99.9% of the riders. They are over their heads and just don't know it. I have found my 400 single manual to out run most of the bigger autos on acceleration until I run out of engine and almost 50 mph is fast enough on 5psi knobby tires anyway. So there's my opinion, for what it's worth. About what you paid for it.[/quote]

I would like to see a 400 manual outrun my 650!!! It just ain't possible 0 to anyspeed. A good freind of mine just bought a 400 manual and no offense but I was less than impressed with proformance.

 

yea, but i put in a new plug like every few rides. and a l i usually ride is about a 4 hour trail ride every weekend and about 1 hour of riding during the week. also, i put in a fuel filter so that i wouldnt have to clean the tank as often. and the reason why i was giving it gas when iw as trying to start it is because even in the summer when it is 70 degrees out, i need to give it gas to start. it usually wont just start with no throttle in the summer.(that could of eben from the choke problem but i dont know.)

 

I would like to see a 400 manual outrun my 650!!! It just ain't possible 0 to anyspeed. A good freind of mine just bought a 400 manual and no offense but I was less than impressed with proformance.[/quote]

Well, I rode with a '04 AC650 last sunday and off the really slow corners where I got down to first and then up shifted to second he didn't have a chance. The Grizz's I ride with are all concerned that something is wrong cause I can pull the autos easily thru 3rd gear. So I guess I beg to differ with you. The stupid thing is I can carry the front tires on the power shift into second for at least 2 bike lengths. Being able to selecte which gear and where in the power band of the engine you are make a major difference.

 

Garrett; my 2001 AC250 starts everytime even in low teens temps with only the choke. No throttle or it will not start for sure. When the engine is warm, yes you need to give it some throttle, but cold, never; even the owners manual says "No throttle" on start up. I suspect you have a choke problem. You need the carb off, remove the choke cable and valve and make sure the fuel passage to the throttle bore is clear. No corrosion or rust in the choke valve bore or on the valve and make sure the passage to the fuel bowl is clear also. I replace my plug on my 250 once a year, have had a plug problem yet. The manual says every 4000 miles or 18 months, I think thats to long with todays fuels but thats just my opinion.

 

well, i just wnt out and tried it with just the choke and it wouldnt start. i eventually had to give it throttle and it did start. for osme reason when u have the choke off and u move the lever the slide in the carb doesnt move. is the carb on it a vaccum choke or something? that needs vaccum from the engine to engage. or is there a problem if the slide doesnt move when u move the lever. its weird because when the engine is hot and u move the lever to choke on, it will die, so im pretty sure the choke is working. so why doesnt it move. i think in other carbs, there is a butterfly thing that looks about the size of a quarter, and that is what opens and closes. is there something wrong if it doesnt move?

 

The slide only moves when there is enough air flow thru the engine to require the slide to supply the engine more air. Not running- never will move. The throttle valve behind it will, the slide no. The choke is actually and enrichment system the allows extra fuel into the engine in addition to the normal low speed fuel circuit. The choke is internal and you won't see anything move there. The slide is a seperate system from the throttle and is controlled by the spring behind the dyaphram and how much vacuum the engine is pulling. This is why the carbs are fairly insensitive to altitude changes. Have you tried adjusting the mixture screw? What color is the inside of your exhaust pipe?