CV Boot replacement help
#1
05-08-2005, 10:21 PM
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CV Boot replacement help
Can any one give me a quick step by step on how to replace my cv boot on my 2003 500i?
This is my first time replacing one. It's the front one next to the wheel.
Do I have to remove the entire axle?
Am I better off getting the replacement from AC or does anyone else know a better source?
Thanks
This is my first time replacing one. It's the front one next to the wheel.
Do I have to remove the entire axle?
Am I better off getting the replacement from AC or does anyone else know a better source?
Thanks
#2
05-08-2005, 11:16 PM
CV Boot replacement help
There is no substitute that is equal to the OEM part.
You want a repair manual. Its not hard but you will need a torque wrench.
If the joint is contaminated "AT ALL" you will need to disassemble clean and relube the CV joint
Again, at repair manual is strongly recommended. Your going to need the boot kit with replacement
boot straps from the dealer any how - pick up the manual there also.
You want a repair manual. Its not hard but you will need a torque wrench.
If the joint is contaminated "AT ALL" you will need to disassemble clean and relube the CV joint
Again, at repair manual is strongly recommended. Your going to need the boot kit with replacement
boot straps from the dealer any how - pick up the manual there also.
#3
05-09-2005, 02:42 AM
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CV Boot replacement help
I tore a front outer boot on my 660. Had to take off both to get to it (being the outer), so I just replaced both while I had it off. Used a "Fastboot" kit I got for like $25 at the yamaha dealer. Messy and kind of a pain, but not extremely difficult. I opted to take off the lower a-arm at the frame to get the axle out rather than screw around with ball joints and stuff.
I jacked it up off the ground, removed the wheel, removed the tie rod where it attaches to the hub thing, removed the bottom shock bolt so that the shock could swing up and out of the way and the a-arms would have some give in them, removed the two lower a-arm bolts and pulled the a-arm away from the frame. Pulled the axle out of the hub so that it was just hanging out of the differential. Gave it about 6 good tugs and it popped out of the differential. From there, I cut the clamps holding the boot in place and slid it down the shaft. Used circlip pliers to take the lock ring off the cv joint. Dissassembled that thing, slid the new boot down, cleaned it up and packed it with grease. Slid the boot back down and re-clamped, and put it all back the way I found it. This is kind of a half assed explanation. Sorry for that. The only time I needed an extra person was getting the clamps back on good and tight. Kind of need somebody there to hold stuff firm for you while you do the boot clamps.
The Fast Boot kit came with a boot, 2 clamps, and a package of grease. If I'm right, its the inner that you can do alone, but you have to take both of them off if you are replacing an outer boot.
I jacked it up off the ground, removed the wheel, removed the tie rod where it attaches to the hub thing, removed the bottom shock bolt so that the shock could swing up and out of the way and the a-arms would have some give in them, removed the two lower a-arm bolts and pulled the a-arm away from the frame. Pulled the axle out of the hub so that it was just hanging out of the differential. Gave it about 6 good tugs and it popped out of the differential. From there, I cut the clamps holding the boot in place and slid it down the shaft. Used circlip pliers to take the lock ring off the cv joint. Dissassembled that thing, slid the new boot down, cleaned it up and packed it with grease. Slid the boot back down and re-clamped, and put it all back the way I found it. This is kind of a half assed explanation. Sorry for that. The only time I needed an extra person was getting the clamps back on good and tight. Kind of need somebody there to hold stuff firm for you while you do the boot clamps.
The Fast Boot kit came with a boot, 2 clamps, and a package of grease. If I'm right, its the inner that you can do alone, but you have to take both of them off if you are replacing an outer boot.
#4
05-09-2005, 09:27 PM
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CV Boot replacement help
1. Jack your vehicle off the ground and secure it from rolling
2. Remove the wheel
3. Remove the axle nut (large nut on the outside of the hub)
4. Remove the lower control arm bolt from the ball joint and hub assembly. Then remove the bolt from the shock and upper control arm
5. The hub will be able to swing out away allowing the outer cv joint to be slipped out through the back. This may require a tap on the threaded end of the outer cv joint. Put the axle nut back on half way so that you can tap on it without damaging the threads.
6. The inner cv joint will be the only thing holding it axle in place. The inner cv joint is held in by a “c” clip, just pry it away from the differential and it will pop out, you may need to tap it from behind. Now you should be able to pull it out of the differential.
7. If you are only replacing the JUST THE BOOT you’ll want to do that from the inner cv joint end of the shaft, refer to inner cv joint instructions). However, if you are removing the outer cv joint you’ll want to put the cv axle in a vise by the shaft close to the inner cv or u-joint . Cut the boot clamps and make sure that your cv joint is not held on by a clip that you can see on the shaft under the boot (this is only on a few later models). If there is no clip you’ll want to tap lightly on the outer cv joint and then give it a few good hits to knock it off of the shaft (I use a 5 lb sledge. (wear glasses, grease may fly!) It usually comes off with one or two good blows with the hammer. However, If it doesn't come off put the axle in a vise and try again. If it still doesn't come off use your hammer to break the cage and remove the ball bearings. This will expose the race. You'll need to press the race off of the shaft. You can use a punch and hammer to punch the shaft back through the race. Other wise you'll need to use a press. Or cut it off with a cutoff saw. Cut the race in the direction of the splines on the shaft. That way it won't affect your new joint going onto the splines.
8. Now that the joint is removed cut away the old boot and clamps and clean the shaft with parts cleaner or Brake clean.
9. Put on the new boot and slide it toward the inner out of the way.
10. Cut the corner of the grease packet to make it like a baker’s bag. This will allow you to squirt the grease into the hole were the shaft will go. Fill the outer cv joint until the grease comes up around the ***** and set the rest aside for later in this procedure.
11. Now put a little grease on the "c" clip on the shaft to help hold it centered
12. Take the outer cv joint and line up with the splines of the shaft and make sure that your clip is not sticking out to one side or the other.
13. Now place the axle nut onto the threads half way to avoid damaging the threads and tap the joint back onto the shaft. If it doesn't go fairly easily then back off and use a screw driver the press the clip in while putting pressure until it is no longer exposed then the joint will tap on with ease.
14. Now squirt the remaining grease around the top of the joint (it may not require all of the grease packet just use about a 1" bead all the way around) were the shaft meets the joint and slide your boot down and clamp the large clamp first.
15. Now use a screw driver to go in between the small end of the boot and shaft to release any trapped air or suction that may be deforming the boot. Then install the small clamp.
16. Now ready to install the axle. Just use your removal procedure in reverse.
For inner joint removal:
The only way to remove the outer cv joint is to hit it off the shaft with a hammer. The problem with this is that in most cases you may damage the joint in the process so I would only recommend this proceedure if your replacing just the boot. If you are not replacing the outer cv joint then the safest thing to do is put it on from the inner cv joint side. The inner cv joint is very simple to remove. First you'll want to remove the clamps from the boot (you'll want to buy the additional clamp kit for $2). Being careful not to puncture the boot you can pry up on the tabs that hold the band in place or just cut by putting a screwdriver under them and prying up to give you enough room to get the metal snips under them. Once the boot is free slide it back toward the outer cv joint to expose the inner components. You'll find a large retaining clip that goes around the inside of the joint just above the ball tracks. Remove the clip by getting behind it with a small screwdriver. Once this clip is removed the inner cage, race, *****, & shaft will come out all together (wrap your hand around this to prevent the ***** from falling out all over the place). You'll find a retaining clip on the back of the shaft, remove this with retaining clip pliers or a large screw driver to spread the clip open. Once this is removed you'll be able to remove the cage, race, & ***** all together at one time. No your ready to install it on your new half shaft. Make sure the boot goes on first. Then place the cage, race, & ***** on the shaft making sure that the tapered side of the cage and race are facing toward the outer cv joint. Install the clip to hold it onto the shaft. Then fill the inner cv joint housing with grease and place it over the cage, race, & *****. Install the large clip. Now pull the boot down and install the large clamp. Then take a screw driver and place it in between the small part of the boot and the shaft and push the inner cv joint in all the way until it bottoms out. Then pull it back halfway (or to the mid range of the inner cv joint) and remove the screw driver and install the small clamp. Your now ready to install the axle back in the vehicle. If you have any questions or concerns you can PM me.
Danny
2. Remove the wheel
3. Remove the axle nut (large nut on the outside of the hub)
4. Remove the lower control arm bolt from the ball joint and hub assembly. Then remove the bolt from the shock and upper control arm
5. The hub will be able to swing out away allowing the outer cv joint to be slipped out through the back. This may require a tap on the threaded end of the outer cv joint. Put the axle nut back on half way so that you can tap on it without damaging the threads.
6. The inner cv joint will be the only thing holding it axle in place. The inner cv joint is held in by a “c” clip, just pry it away from the differential and it will pop out, you may need to tap it from behind. Now you should be able to pull it out of the differential.
7. If you are only replacing the JUST THE BOOT you’ll want to do that from the inner cv joint end of the shaft, refer to inner cv joint instructions). However, if you are removing the outer cv joint you’ll want to put the cv axle in a vise by the shaft close to the inner cv or u-joint . Cut the boot clamps and make sure that your cv joint is not held on by a clip that you can see on the shaft under the boot (this is only on a few later models). If there is no clip you’ll want to tap lightly on the outer cv joint and then give it a few good hits to knock it off of the shaft (I use a 5 lb sledge. (wear glasses, grease may fly!) It usually comes off with one or two good blows with the hammer. However, If it doesn't come off put the axle in a vise and try again. If it still doesn't come off use your hammer to break the cage and remove the ball bearings. This will expose the race. You'll need to press the race off of the shaft. You can use a punch and hammer to punch the shaft back through the race. Other wise you'll need to use a press. Or cut it off with a cutoff saw. Cut the race in the direction of the splines on the shaft. That way it won't affect your new joint going onto the splines.
8. Now that the joint is removed cut away the old boot and clamps and clean the shaft with parts cleaner or Brake clean.
9. Put on the new boot and slide it toward the inner out of the way.
10. Cut the corner of the grease packet to make it like a baker’s bag. This will allow you to squirt the grease into the hole were the shaft will go. Fill the outer cv joint until the grease comes up around the ***** and set the rest aside for later in this procedure.
11. Now put a little grease on the "c" clip on the shaft to help hold it centered
12. Take the outer cv joint and line up with the splines of the shaft and make sure that your clip is not sticking out to one side or the other.
13. Now place the axle nut onto the threads half way to avoid damaging the threads and tap the joint back onto the shaft. If it doesn't go fairly easily then back off and use a screw driver the press the clip in while putting pressure until it is no longer exposed then the joint will tap on with ease.
14. Now squirt the remaining grease around the top of the joint (it may not require all of the grease packet just use about a 1" bead all the way around) were the shaft meets the joint and slide your boot down and clamp the large clamp first.
15. Now use a screw driver to go in between the small end of the boot and shaft to release any trapped air or suction that may be deforming the boot. Then install the small clamp.
16. Now ready to install the axle. Just use your removal procedure in reverse.
For inner joint removal:
The only way to remove the outer cv joint is to hit it off the shaft with a hammer. The problem with this is that in most cases you may damage the joint in the process so I would only recommend this proceedure if your replacing just the boot. If you are not replacing the outer cv joint then the safest thing to do is put it on from the inner cv joint side. The inner cv joint is very simple to remove. First you'll want to remove the clamps from the boot (you'll want to buy the additional clamp kit for $2). Being careful not to puncture the boot you can pry up on the tabs that hold the band in place or just cut by putting a screwdriver under them and prying up to give you enough room to get the metal snips under them. Once the boot is free slide it back toward the outer cv joint to expose the inner components. You'll find a large retaining clip that goes around the inside of the joint just above the ball tracks. Remove the clip by getting behind it with a small screwdriver. Once this clip is removed the inner cage, race, *****, & shaft will come out all together (wrap your hand around this to prevent the ***** from falling out all over the place). You'll find a retaining clip on the back of the shaft, remove this with retaining clip pliers or a large screw driver to spread the clip open. Once this is removed you'll be able to remove the cage, race, & ***** all together at one time. No your ready to install it on your new half shaft. Make sure the boot goes on first. Then place the cage, race, & ***** on the shaft making sure that the tapered side of the cage and race are facing toward the outer cv joint. Install the clip to hold it onto the shaft. Then fill the inner cv joint housing with grease and place it over the cage, race, & *****. Install the large clip. Now pull the boot down and install the large clamp. Then take a screw driver and place it in between the small part of the boot and the shaft and push the inner cv joint in all the way until it bottoms out. Then pull it back halfway (or to the mid range of the inner cv joint) and remove the screw driver and install the small clamp. Your now ready to install the axle back in the vehicle. If you have any questions or concerns you can PM me.
Danny
#5
05-10-2005, 03:02 AM
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05-10-2005, 11:03 AM
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#8
05-10-2005, 11:35 AM
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#9
05-10-2005, 06:11 PM
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CV Boot replacement help
yeah, I had hell trying to figure out how to get the ball joints off. Took off everything that needed to be taken off, and then just decided I would have to have some kind of puller tool or something to get them out. I thought about it for a while, and then just decided to remove one of the a-arms from the frame and it worked. Probably not the best way to go about it, but it was about the only way I could get it done. Did it on my Grizzly, and on a Rubicon once when I was changing out wheel bearings for a friend. Damn Grizzly had the bolts in from the front instead of the rear, and I had to take the freakin winch off and remove the front push bar where it mounts to the front of the frame just to get the front bolt to slide out. The bar gets in the way. I sure enough put them back in the opposite way so I won't have to mess with that next time (and move the bolt from the opposite side a-arm as well just in case that side ever went out).
#10
05-11-2005, 11:07 AM
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