This is an update to my earlier thread which I was unable to locate.

I was running my 400 this winter temp was near zero (15 below with wind chill). Cat was a little cold blooded starting up so I let it warm up for about 15 minutes. Hopped on and took it for a ride. A few minutes into the ride it began to sputter and not run so well so I thought I might have ice crystals in the fuel. Then it began to squeal slightly (sounded like a belt slippling on a car excepts this is a manual tranny). I took my thumb off the trottle to see what the heck was going on and in stalled out on me. It would turn over but battery was drained to far to turn it fast enough to start it up. I also noticed an oil cooling line had nearly popped off.

Towed it to a heated garage and had it started and running 30 minutes later.Except, it had a very loud (VERY LOUD) ticking noise coming from the top end. sounded like valve clatter and it had a popping sound coming out the exhaust like fuel burning inthe pipe or something. I changed the oil and found water in the oil and lots of metal shaving on drain plug and in strainer screen.

I changed the oil 2 times found no more metal shavings, adjusted the valves at least 3 times and could not get rid of the LOUD ticking nor the popping sound. Decided to just ride it more and see what happened but it was a bugging me too much. So I finally parked it and just got the time to take the valve cover off.

Here is what I found:

I found one exhaust valve spring a little lower and loose, probably burned it. The worst part was the bearing journal surfaces on the valve cover and head. There was definte scoring and seizure marks. Also lots of scoring and excessive wear on the rocker arms. I am pretty sure due to lack of oil.

I haven't taken the head off or the can to inspect further yet. I am still recovering from the $700 price tag of the new head and valve cover. As long as the piston and cylinder walls are fine I think the final total will be around $1200 for new head/valve cover, valves, rocker arms and various bolts, washers and gaskets.

Still trying to figure out how I got enough water in the oil to make it look like hot chocolate since I changed the oil after everthing froze up and I have never submerged the machine? I am thinking condensation but?? not too sure?

Also, should I go ahead and tear it down far enough to replace the oil pump? It was pumping oil to the top end fine after the problem occured as I put nearly 100 miles on as it is? I am leaning toward NO but what do you all think?

Sorry for the long post.

SJ

 

Good to hear from you swampy and that you at least found your problem. I have no idea how all that water could have gotten in there. My first thought was that maybe someone put it in there who doesn't like you. But then I though, now who wouldn't like swampy! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

How much is an oil pump? It might be worth it if it isn't too much, but it looks like you getting a large bill already. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] Good luck and keep us posted.

 

What weight of oil were you running?. Even for a $100+ for an oil pump I would change it. Lack of oil always makes me very nervous when I can't find something broke that caused it.

 

Oil pump is about $140, but I think the case needs to be split to get at it. The Service manual isn't really as clear as I would like it to be for some of these procedures. Cost would probably be higher with the additional gaskets needed after splitting the case.

Bear, I was running Arctic Cats syntetic oil that comes in the oil change kit. I think its 0W-40 or something like that.

Now that I think about it I may split the cases anyway to inspect the lower end and clutch to make sure the metal shavings didn't mess something else up. So I might as well change the oil pump while that is going on.

Only bad part now is the possible 2 week wait for parts! Oh well, that will give me time to fix a few other rubbing problems with the wiring harness that I discovered while removing the engine.

I also have LOTS of rust seems AC's powder coating (if that's what it is) is not sticking at all. so I am going to clean up as much of the rust as I can before it weakens a weld and breaks. Frame and racks are rusted up pretty good.