Ok I have done a search in the history but can not find what I am looking for. #1 if you install the 38 watt bulbs will it create a heat issue for the headlight buckets? #2 I have found some 55watt bulbs that will fit the stock plug with the brighter blue light, would you think these will create to much heat? Or what have you found for a good work around and what lights and how much and where did you get them?

Oldmancrash

 

I remember reading a post here a long time ago about somebody replacing the stock bulbs with 55watt auto bulbs and they had heat related issues that melted the plastic housing. I would think the 38 watt bulbs would be better but I have no clue what watt bulb is stock?

I purchased a set of 55 watt fog lights from harbor freight, and mounted them to a small section of square tubing to fit the front MRP racks. Then wired them into the 12V AC plug with their own switch. I then added a steerable light to the instrument cluster (I think they have it at Highlifter.com). They have an inline fuse so they do not overload the fuse on the ATV.

I know Catterman also added a brighter back-up light to his MRP rack, I think, for backing up in the dark. I have not seen an ATV that can keep the mud off the headlights so all brands have this lack of light problem to a certain extent.

I also know a guy who puts red tinted shrink wrap plastic over his lights and swears it helps him see in the dark better. Never tried it myself but I might to see how it does.

SJ

 

How about the condensation that gets in the housing. Anyone get that covered under warranty? My light one has condensation in it and the left one does not. My feeling is they should if it builds up mosture.

 

If memory serves, and it doesn't a lot anymore, the stock bulbs are 27 watts. But I will check and see.

 

The headlights are 27 Watts each. If you rewire it so that the Low Beams stays on when the High Beams is on, you will double your light output. Bigger wattage bulbs have another issue besides heat to consider. The current draw could cause fuse problems or over load the switch. I'm thinking I will go into the High/Low Beam switch and whenever the key is in the "light on" position the Low Beams will be on and when you hit the High Beam the High Beams will come on in addition to the Low Beams. Cost nothing except a little solder and time.

 

If you want to shell out some cash you can get the light bar for the mrp speed racks. It does a good job for lighting the trails looks like plow lights for a atv and thats exactly what i use them for as my 60in plow is far to tall on the ground for the right light to shine over let alone when the plow is lifted i would have no lighting if i didnt have the light bar during plow season.

 

Eclipse

HID SCMR16: 5600K 1850 lumens
World's first MR16 HID light with a self-contained ballast. No remote ballast to be installed. When only the best will do, these are the lights for you. At 30 watts, they are virtually plug and play, and their light output is intense. 3 times brighter than halogen.

Handlebar mounted Eclipse lights improve vision by allowing lights to be aimed with the handlebars. Handlebar mounted lights can be used to complement or replace stock lights. Kits available for most common sport ATV's. Most light kits include billet bar clamp with two 30 watt HID billet lights (one narrow beam and one wide angle for best field of view), stainless steel mounting hardware and photographic installation instructions.

2 to 3 times brighter than stock lights
Custom desgned for exact model fit
Easy to install
CNC machined from 6061 billet aluminum
Hande polished to a high gloss
Clear coated for a long lasting bright finish
Some clamps have optional stainless steel logo plate
Bullet type connectors included

They are the best light for ATV's as they draw very little watts and it will not over load the stator or battery
The light burns at the same kalven temp as the sun and it is a gas that burns.

E-bay has them and at a super price right now.

 

I had the same issues with the stock 27 watt headlights. I changed both the high and low beam bulbs to Sylvania Silverstars (37 watt) and it made a big difference. I have not had any fuse related issues or anything melt or distort from heat. I didn't rewire anything but the low beams stay on too when I switch on the high beams.

If I recall, the stock bulbs are 889 and the replacements were 893. I would have to go out to the shed and check for sure though.

I would like to put a handlebar mounted light on or at least some front mounted higher up. And a rear light would come in handy at times.

Craig

 

This is some info on replacement Lights

I added a pod light that is 55w and wired it to my keyed ignition switch so it can't come on without the key being on, and then put the on/off switch right on my pod by my handwarmers. I did the same thing in the rear, only used a 55w flood light. I can't remember how much this all cost me but it was under $40 for sure for both of them. Only thing is my rear flood light is a little low (sits on my LE bumper) so I can't see over a tall trailer, however it works AWESOME for plowing. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Thanks folks very much for the input. I think after Christmas I will invest in some 37 watters and also add a pod mounted light. 893 or 894 st or stu 24 73 hut hut hike [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] all very important information. Hay Catterman I like the avatar and thaks for the link. I am glad I work with pc's as it gives a little extra time to read these threads